Day 4 Horses, stunning nature and more rainbows!

Today it looked like it was going to be a partly clouded day. Typical Icelandic weather but not as bad as yesterday. I have spend hours drying my clothes, my shoes and bag. Despite of wearing waterproof protections, everything got REALLY wet. But the hairdryer was not agreeing with my attempts and got overheated all the time. So, I put some plastic bags around my feet and used the still soaking all weather boots. And took some pair of dry socks with me, to change after riding.

Breakfast was again excelent, the pancakes were there again, but today I discovered the nuts. Fresh natural pure nuts.... pecans! So grounded pecans on the pancakes, pecans from hand and stuffed some pecans in my pockets. I love it!

Then I had to take the bus to the GrayLine terminal. I was picked up by GrayLine at the hotel of course, but the main departure takes place there at the center of Reykjavik. I spoke with a Norwegian girl who also takes the same trip.
Not long after the transfer from Laxnes Horsefarm arrived. A nice welcoming horsey smell came along. The bus was full, but we of course had to wait again for some Chinese. It is always the Chinese who are too late. It appeared to me that I was the only one who could ride. So I had this slight feeling of getting on a boring slow ride.

When we arrived at the stable lots of horseys were awaiting us. Some already saddled, some not. Probably those were the very kind horses. I noticed the Icelandic Horse here has an incredible diversity, not the type I know back home. Maybe because they are starting to get wooly? But there was also a very tiny (even for Icelandic terms) horse, maybe just a bit taller than 1 meter. Special for children. And a huge male one looking like a draughthorse, and I doubt this one still fitted the measurement of a pony. To me all Icelandic Horses are Horses, dont get me wrong.

After putting ourselfs into bright orange rainsuits, boots, gloves and helmets, we were choosen a horse. When I said I had over 20 years riding experience, the owner disappeared into the herd. Looking for a FFF horse (Fierce, Feisty & Fast, but to me make it Fierce, Funny and Fast). And he returned with Stjörnu, named after the star on his head. It was the family horse and has a very special place in this horsefarm. Not used a lot during the tours. So I got a more delicate horse. YAY! 

My horse Stjornu

Finaly after a loooong time preparing, and me trying to tell people not to pull the reins all the time (sigh... guides should say to pull the reins when nothing works, people now in all their fear when they move start to pull, which is such a horrific sight. Some horses walked backwards all the time, and believe me getting a horse walking backwards is not easy) we could leave. 
I started in the back of the group, but they told me Stjörnu loves to be in front. He was not fighting his way there, but because of the stumbling of the other people I decided to put him into a tolt already to get passed this group. And the rest of the time, I remained in the front, mostly behind our guide. At least this way I got to tolt and ride. Which was wonderfull. Meandering along a glacial river we had to cross few times, giving Stjörnu space to find his own way through the rocks. Then we went up on a hill which I assume is either a piece of land shifted up by earthquakes or a volcanic rift. All the way on top we had a magnificent view towards Reykjavik and the ocean. It didnt rain more than a drizzle so view was acceptable clear. Later on the rainbow that accompanies me ever since I was on the plane to Iceland, appeared very bright. I could not take pictures during the ride, no hands free to clean the rain etc. So I have not much pictures. Only those made during our little break, to have the horses graze. 

A break for the horses to graze

We rode back in the same way we came from. But this way there appeared more 'problems', many horses behind and one horse became very stubborn, didn't want to cross the rivers etc. I think this was a wrong match rider/horse, it was looking so confused to me. And the rider was also one that continiously is pulling the reins. Maybe the horse didn't accept that anymore and fought his way back. The guy was having a hard time. For me it was also hard, because Stjörnu smelled the stable and started to speed up ever closer we got to 'home'. In the end he was sort of unstopable, but I noticed the guide had the same problem, we just tolted our way back to the stable. Stjörnu also cantered a few steps and for what I felt wanted to go in pace, but couldn't find stability to do so. He was not at all uncontrolable by the way, he just was taking over the lead, gently but fast getting home. I could stop if I want, I could turn if needed. Could do anything. I just know you should never doubt the way of the Icelandic Horse, if they want something; find compromise or let them go. You wont win it. And as long as it appeared safe (he stayed behind the guide and was controlable) I hurried along to the stable. 

Looking backwards I saw horses doing the same thing, running home with their 'luggage' and the followup guide cantering behind to assist with the naughty brown horse. Naughty wrong word, but you get the point. Horseriding is not easy, it can be frustrating too. Personally I don't think it is right thing to do this trips if people have not had the least instructions about riding. At least you would if you care for your horses. Which by all means is not to say those people don't care for the horses. But I have seen some things that break my heart, but that is because I connect differently with horses. I saw overweight people trotting, while this breed has a unique gait that could spare his back. Now I saw the poor horse lowering his back with every stride, too much weight bumping as the girl wasn't one with the movement too. I know overweight people who ride horses without harming their backs. And I know slim people who do. 

Enough horse talk here ;-) Our ride was over, and after a lunchbreak the horrific big GreyLine bus appeared. I hoped we had a small group to go see the Golden Circle. But no... we were crammed into this bus, I had no windowseat and that is shear torture to me because I thrive on it to absorb the world around me. In this case a small group of Spanish who continiously talked and translated, so I couldnt hear the accented guide talking. And this tour would consist of mainly busrides (about 4 out of 5 1/2 hour). I had the time of my life... not really. 

The weather has become better. Very good. Our first bus stop was very close at Thingvellir National Park. I was expected to have some time here to do some hiking. That is what the tour promised. But instead we had 15 minutes to see the fissure. 

So ok... we got off, and honestly this area is amazing. How beautifull Iceland is in Autumn! All those colors. And I could only feel sorry I had no time at all. To look, to listen, to feel. Only time to rush to the fissure, run like crazy take photo's and return in time to the bus. Honestly I will never ever again do a Golden Circle tour. Never. Next time I go alone or with very small group. 
During the next busride to Gullfoss (1 hour) I could restore some thing. The feeling after seeing this place Thingvellir. The awesomeness, the true power of nature. What unbelievable forces the Earth has to rip apart land, to let continents drift apart, and push up whole mountains. The idea that one day Iceland will break into two. I doubt it we will ever experience that, before it happens somewhereelse the world has to collide. Or maybe Earth is gone completely. At least I do understand this power now. If the Earth can create this, it can destroy too. But again, this rough nature of Iceland at the same time shows tenderness. The flowers that grow, the waters that flow. It is so balanced here. This will keep my mind busy for a long time. If you experience Iceland you can only feel mesmorised of how beautifull our planet is. 

On our way to Gullfoss we pass the Geysir site seeing the Earth damping wherever you look. 
At Gullfoss we have 45 minutes to see the falls. But that is because we have to walk a little bit and go down into the canyon to see them. Unfortunately the wind is messing up, it is blowing towards the viewing plateau, and therefor the fog is hazing any picture you take. We can't have it all. But the fog also generates rainbows :-) Yes there it is again! I move up to the highest plateau, and there for first time I was all alone. Just me and the roaring falls behind me. Then two birds approach me, one is ahead. It is a raven. I am too late to take a proper picture of her. She flies on and vanishes in the distance. Not much later the second raven came flying towards me. I thought my camera was filming but it was not. Again an unclear picture. This raven suddenly decides to fly a circle overhead of me. Then he gives a raven call and continues to follow the other one. This one felt so gifted to experience. Never saw a wild raven before, and now I have seen 3. The lack of wildlife is sure a disadvantage of Iceland. There are LOTS of birds, but most have now headed to mainland Europe or even further down for winter. As soon as this raven left via the canyon, another rainbow appeared. Just there in the fog of Gullfoss. Moments like this are timeless in this extrordinairy country. My heart cries out to explore it more, much more than this. But in another way. 

I have to climb up to buy something to eat for the night, just in case the northern light excursion goes on. In the store I decided to buy a salmon bagel for once. Though the food is of high quality, a lot is non vegan. And however I do eat meat once in a while, it does not include lamb. Which is about 75% of the available meat here. So after getting this sandwich bought, it was time to go to Geysir. 

At this geothermic park, there are over 50 geysirs, hot springs, mudsprings, fumerols and other geothermal sites. The most famous is Geysir of course. And Strokkur who faithfully erupts every 4-6 minutes.  
Since we only had 15 minutes here (what a shame!) I devoted my time to get a capture of the blue bell of Strokkur. This is the moment when the hot water is coming out of the geysir. A huge blue ball of water bursting into steam. I witnessed 2 rounds, before deciding to quickly run towards the other sites. I could not find time to see them all, or find out about their names. I wanted to see Geysir, but it appeared to me that Geysir was situated further on on a mountain, seeing lots of people standing there. I would have no time to do so... since we had to go to another place for the bus. I hated this, I wanted to see Geysir even if it would not erupt. 
This site also is heaven for photographer, so again I got disappointed about this way, being used like cattle or a bunch of Japanese on a one week world tour. You wont want to know how many sites I have seen that I would have loved to force the busdriver to stop for pictures. So unfair. I have no picture of horses in full nature (with a volcano or hill as background), or the sheep in the middle of the autumn colors. Or the autumn colors itself, waterfalls that are beautiful but rarely visited. And now I didnt even glimpse Geysir. Now, when I write this I am with more wisdom, and know that I have seen AND captured Geysir. Honestly I am sure no one payed attention to him. It was the first one we came across, but me included we all walked straight towards Strokkur. 
One day I will come back... and pay more attention to Geysir.

Strokkur is about to erupt. The "Blue Bell" is appearing soon to burst and explode into a fountain of hot steam

All water is soaked back into the apparently empty hole that Strokkur is for a few seconds

This is Geysir :-)

Little Geysir once in a while flushes out a small fountain of steam, but mostly remains a boiling and bubbling pot.

 
The tour ended by driving back via the southwest of Iceland. I saw Hekla and we drove past Ejafjallajokul hiding in the mists. We drove via the southwest to show another part of geothermal activity. Actually 2. First we went to a town which is build on such geothermal field. In the middle of the town there are fumerols and geysirs. Sometimes a house disappears when new fumerols develop. Dangerous to live, but Icelanders use it wisely. In this area there are lots of green houses where they use this thermal heat and energy to grow everything, from tomatos to roses, and melons to bananas. And a lot of flowers too. Iceland is getting less and less depend on other countries for food. But what is the price they will pay for it one day? After all they live on a volcano. 

Not far away from this town, is the thermal energy station for Reykjavik, and the largest in the world. Here they use the geo thermal heat to heat water, to generate steam and to have this water transported to Reykjavik where it first warms the streets of Reykjavik, to keep them icefree. After this journey it is still hot enough to be used as hot water. Believe me, hot water from the tap is really hot, and cold water is really cold. It comes straight from either volcanos or glaciers. All they do is apply a filter to filter out large particals. The rest is unnecessary. The waters are so clean in Iceland, you can drink from the glaciers, or well. Providing you are sure it is not toxic volcanic water. 
So Iceland has sufficient and clean water, energy and heating. Our guide told us she pays 1500 euro a year for water, electricity, heating, taxes and disposal. Maybe it is cheap, I dont know. But I pay less... but I don't use a lot. I am not average. You know, I walk without a jacket in Reykjavik in September... 

Early in the evening we arrive back in Reykjavik. With the announcement that the northern light tour is cancelled for the third time. There was no chance for auroral activity either. It didn't matter. I could pack my suitcase and prepare for the day I leave. Tears drop down. What is my mission in my home country? Is it so cruel I have to go back to this place where I feel so miserable... Tomorrow I go back to my old ways, old routines, to news I don't want to hear, to pay bills I have no money for, to places where I am not being taken serious. To a country that is destroying itself to a third world country. I have to get away... but for Iceland I wait a moment until Katla has been woken up. I have to because if I want to take the cats, it can take up to 9 months before they are ready to leave. If I manage to take them with me. I have to see what problem causes Grey to cough up all the time.