When I wake up I barely dare to look outside. It was supposed to rain alllll day with slight chance of snow. And yes, undeniable I got to see it was grey and wet outside. Iceland turned back to its normal climate after two days of wonderfull clear skies.
I was sad of not seeing the pancakes for breakfast, but the discovered bowl of pecan nuts and a dish full of fruits like 3 types of melon, pineapple and papaya made me happy too.
At 7.30 I was picked up by GrayLine Iceland. A huge touringcar, that was not what I expected. But hey we were just transported to the downtown office of GrayLine. I was with 2 others the only in this bus. It is good almost all Icelandic busses drive on biodisel.
At the office I had to change my vouchers to the actual ticket. And after 30 minutes our real vehicle arrived.
Thorsmork is an out of this world place not accesible by normal busses or cars. They will be swept off road by the sometimes vicious glacier streams. So... our transport was Paris <-> Dakar worthy a 4 wheel drive bus. If I may call it that way. It is a bus on a truck base, high on it wheels, made to drive through water. It is nothing compared to the vehicles they use in Jokullsarloon that actually can float, but still impressive.
The group is not big, there is place for only 20 people on this tour and we are with 14. I had the back of the bus for myself, so I could switch from left to right if I wanted to. The driver tells us the introduction to the tour, that we would visit Eyjafjallajokull from close, see one of its glacier arms stretching out into Thorsmork, we should visit a forest on the rim of Katla and climb Thors rock. On the way back we visit two canyons. If we can cross the rivers running through which is doubtfull looking at the weather. And finally on our way back to Reykjavik, we visit the Seljalandfoss and the black lava beach down Sellfoss.
So, it would take a drive of about 2 hours to reach Thorsmork. Driving through the beautifull landscape of Iceland. First crossing a volcanic ridge near Reykjavik where the geothermal center is situated where the heat and hot water of Reykjavik come from. They use the volcanos very wisely. The hot water is transported to Reykjavik, where the pipelines first warm and defrost the streets and parkings, then they will heat also the public buildings. After this in the pipelines the water is still hot enough to be used as hot water for the houses and swimming pools. You can trust me if I say hot water, it is really hot. And cold water is ice cold in Iceland. The steam that is released from the collecting of the volcanic water, is used for hydro-thermal energy. Iceland solely relies on natural energy sources. It produces so much energy and hot water, it is even exported (and now I am curious how that works).
We drive on high through the mountains, actually in the rainclouds which did not allow us to see the beauty surrounding us. Very dramatic weather. The guide tried to cheer us up with saying that Thorsmork usually have opposite weather of Reykjavik, due to its location sheltered between the 3 volcanos. Lets hope it is that way. I know the opposite can be true too, clouds trapped between mountains, taking forever to flood away.
Soon we left the regular road, and got on a decent gravel road. We approached Eyjafjallajokull with its many waterfalls on the rims. So beautifull to see. We pass Seljalandfoss who we will visit later too. The colors of the volcano mountains, all shades of red, green, gold, orange and black. How would this look like in sunshine? So beautifull as it is in the rain already!
The volcanos are huge, after 20 minutes, and feeling like we passed ten mountains, the guide lets us know he won't talk anymore as roadcondition needs his full concentration. Yes I agree so. What a bumpy ride it become!
Everywhere around us lay the black lava rocks and ashes as silent witnesses from Esjafjallajokulls last eruption. Huge boulders, and in the middle of this black river valley, the glacial river flowing out the glacial melts of the volcanos. And, they are also our safety guards, who we should never leave out of sight. Because this river can indicate activity of the volcanos. If this river suddenly starts to expand (and it is streaming a few meters in a valley of 1 km wide) it could mean a glacier is melting due to a volcano starting to heat up. Besides earthquakes the rising river is usually first and most reliable sign an eruption is in progress.
I stare in awe at this beauty here, that black river bed, bordered by autumn colored hills dotted with sheep. No wonder films have been made here, and painters and artists love to come here. And the silence... incredible silence. And there, suddenly we are in front of this glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. The picture says it all what size only this small part of this glacier is. Look at the car and human in front, and I saw this car, this is a super jeep. Not the bigger type but still it is dissolving in the back grounds.
We had no time to walk up to the glacier. I would have loved to touch it. To stand in front. And I wonder and try to imagine the fury that has been released here in March 2010. What incredible powers can throw this huge house sizes boulders for km into the air. What heat can melt this glaciers in just seconds. You really stare in awe at this proove of brutal forces. But also with deep respect.
We continued our ride to Thorsmork national park. Another 45 minutes and the road got worse. Beyond this point of the glacier you can forget about it to go further with a regular 4x4. Unless you have a deathwish.
When we arrive in Thorsmork it still rains. We were prepared and after our lunch on the bus we proceeded to talk to Thors Rock who towered high above us. From a certain angle it is clear why it is called Thors rock. Looking like his hammer. Icelandic people believe his hammer once came falling from the sky. Which is weird because in Iceland barely ever there are thunderstorms. A thunderstorm is for Icelandic people what is northern lights to us. Something rare and to be watched with open mouth.
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| Here is another troll, an old lady guarding with her dog. Forever guarding the mountains. |
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| It is not that difficult to understand why ancient Icelandic people believed rocks were trolls frozen in time. |
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| The glacial river entwines its way through this valley. This river will turn into inferno when a volcano is awake. |
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| Thors rock, looking like Thors hammer who fell from the sky and ripped apart this mountain ridge. Not difficult to see many faces in this rock either. This place is alive, very alive. |
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| Autumn colors, so beautifull |
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| One of Katlas volcanic rims |
Thorsmork is one of the very few places where the native forest of Iceland has been preserved. The way it looks here, Iceland must have looked like for many many eons. Trees on Iceland are dwarf trees. The plenty of birches are arctic birches who never exceed the size of 5 meter in height. The roots cant grow deep, it makes no sense for a tree to grow taller here. We walk along a river towards Katla. The rims of Katla shelter us here. It would be as close as I could get to this volcano during this trip to Iceland. Then we started to climn the hill leading to Thors rock. What a magnificent view you have from here into all directions. Amazing.... how beautifull Iceland is. During this hike the speed was too high to just relax and enjoy the silence and roughness. It really bothered me. But this wonderfull surroundings made up for it completely. And I am aware this place I may never be able to visit again on my own. Simply because it is so inaccesable. You rely on someone to take you there who has both the vehicle and experience. Or a horse. There are horseriding tours (and I have seen the hoofprints) leading deep into this valley.
After visiting Thors Rock, we headed back to the glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. Close to there there is a canyon of which the saga says a troll is sleeping. To get to this trolls sleeping place you need to cross a glacial river two times. But because it has been raining so much this day, it is impossible for some of us to cross the river. I noticed I was soaked to the skin and water started to find its way into my waterboots. My jacket was very waterproof though, completely dry inside. But what a rain.
My camera started to develop problems with the humidity. I had a rainsleeve but condense started to form inside the sleeve and later also inside the camera. I was no longer able to take pictures. I wasn't without raindrops on the lens, but now also the condens inside, it was too much. And at this point I just was done for today too. Everything cold and wet, it couldnt get worse.
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| One picture of the canyon and then my camera decided it has been enough. For this while it was. |
Back on the bus I had to unbuckle for a second to grab some falling goods. And just at that moment, the bus ditched a deep hole in the river. Making me fly up for over 60cm. My head crashed to the ceiling, my neck swayed back. Butterflies all around me, and the driver who didn't pay any attention at all. It was a hell of a smack but it was besides being painfull, ok. In my feeling what happened is that my skin got torn from my scalp, I could feel a friction when pressing it, normally the skin moved smoothly but at this poing no... But no serious damage or rupture. Luckily not because this place calls for expensive medical repatriation (or how they call it) and they warned to make sure you are insured for this before leaving for Iceland. The only way to get out is by air... But, it was ok.
Few minutes later we could have a small picture break for a rainbow and beautifull autumn colors. And I captured a rock from the freezing cold glacial river to put on my sore head. Nature is always around to help you when you need it.
The next stop was at the Seljalandfoss. Soaking wet we dragged ourself to the waterfall. Good thing is that you honestly dont care anymore of the moisty mists around waterfalls, since you cant really getany wetter than this. Instead it became a delicious habit to lick this pure water. Waters are so pure here, and an incredible sweet taste. And this is one of the many ways to deal with the rain. The best is of course like the natives do, to go swimm.
We had 15 minutes at this fall you could walk behind. But the motivation for me was far away. This truly is a wonderfull waterfall, but with me sometimes the motivation disappears and it will be gone. Even in this area. It is my way of thinking. I am done for today, so please go home. :-( Or put it in other more clear explanation, I need time for myself to settle and I am fed up with the restrictions. ;-)
Last on the list we drove to the coast. The area that was developed after Katlas last massive eruption in 1918. 5 km of extra land was born. Iceland doesnt have a lot of beaches. It is mainly fjords and cliffs or river deltas. But here is a beach full of black lava sand. Looking quite odd, as if you ended up in some sort of reality photoshop scene. I grabbed a handfull to take home. Strong winds were blowing, turning my face salty. Besides being black, the beach looked equal to my own.
If weather was clear, we could have seen the Westmann Islands. But no, it still rained. Until we approached Reykjavik, were we saw the sun go down.
The guide appologised for the rain. He never experienced it this worse in Thorsmork. It does rain there often, but never this continuing heavy rain like we had. Was I lucky now? I just hoped weather would be better tomorrow.
After checking with the receptionist there was again no northern light tour. And I wondered, how many times a year actually will this tour be operated? It was not heavy clouded. But nevermind, if it was operated and I wouldnt have seen anything, it was waste of money. Now it seems I will never get on this tour, and will get money back. And still saw auroras. It is ok....
Time to spend a lot of time drying my clothes. And decided to go to the swimming pool to smother in the hot tub. Nice way to warm up and relax, and look back at this awesomeness I have seen.
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