vrijdag 4 oktober 2013

Day 4, the horses will be brought down from the mountains!

Finally it is the day of the round up! Though for us the day only starts at 13.00, during breakfast it already is very busy with lots of people in a certain spirit for today. There are many Scandinavians involved, and a group of Icelandic men are already in a cheerfull mood. With green cans, so that must be Viking. They are leaving before us, with their own horses (I suppose) they will bring our horses to the sheep round up, where we will start our journey in the afternoon. The guys are singing Icelandic songs, and of course Á Sprengisandi cannot be forgotten. That is more or less THE song of the round-up. And however not very original, I must use this for my movie. It simply is anchored to my emotions whenever I think of Icelandic horses. And it must be the only Icelandic song I sort of know the lyrics of.

A bit later other people, more women arrive, except for a group of Norwegian/Icelandic girls, they behave less excited. I and a woman from the USA are (as far as I know) the only ones here for the first time, so it must be very special that so many people come here year after year, some even for the 8th time. I can only hope a tradition will start for me here too.

In the morning after breakfast I just wonder around, getting ready and then we have lunch. We should take some sandwich with us, for during the ride, as we wont arrive before 19.00.
Until the moment our bus arrives, some girls really got into it, and they were in a jolly but slight drunk mood. When we got on the bus they took in bags full of opal and beer. It is a strange combination but it must be said, they were really the entertainment of the day. They were singing out loud on the bus too.

Our horses are already waiting for us at the sheep coral. Vinur is there on the right next to the black one.

Its very cold here... and windy, so we took shelter behind cars away from the wind. Or in the bus who waited for us to leave.

After a 20 minute drive over gravel and country side roads, we arrived at the sheepscoral close to Kolarfossar. It was very cold, very windy and sleet made it worse. It could be far worse, but the family who would take care of us now, told us the herd will be late because unfavorable weather up in the mountains. We had to wait almost 2 hours... The herd arrived at 14.30 though but this was also a bigger break for horses and riders. The horses were put into the sheep pen to rest. We had to wait for this herdmen to give the sign to continue. Our horses were ready ever since the herd arrived. The horses we wouldnt use from our herd, were added to the big herd. If anyone was too heavy and needed to switch horse during the ride, he would take it on the lead with its bridle on, so it was only needed to swap the saddle from one to another.

The herd is finaly coming from the mountains!

Ready to go, frozen in time brrr....

Once it was time to go, we were given some time to cross the lavafield without the herd. It is extremely rough terrain we had to go through, without much trails. We had to let our horses find their own ways, and Vinur sometimes jumped over boulders, ramps and patches of water. My stirrups were a bit too long which challenged me, because that requires in my case, to rely on your ballance more. At a very short moment waiting I at least managed to get the one stirrup a bit shorter, which was good, because during that stop I saw Kolarfossar right behind us and I had this feeling we had to cross this river one way or another. It was quite deep I must say, and I gave Vinur full length to search his way, but he apparantly stepped on a loose boulder and lost balance. It is just good these horses are extremely surefooted. Everything went fine, and everyone arrived on the other shore mainly dry.
Just before we crossed the river, one guy fell off his horse. I was right behind him, and my heroic side immidiately took over to go there in case the horse would get loose. But the guy hold his reins and the horse waited patiently for him to get back on.

This must be the smoother lavafield or else I could not take a picture ;-)

Crossed the river!

A tiny waterfall downstream of Kolarfossar

On the other side of the river we had another little break. I fixed my stirrups and felt more stable now. It would have been magnificent to see the herd of the horses cross the river. For the youngest foals it must be a challenge, but I am very sure their moms will make sure the foals stay on their left side so they can't float away. However as soon as the herd appeared on the mountain top, we took off. We had to stay before the herd at all times or else they would find their own ways instead of following us.

We get out of the rough terrain here. The herd is catching up with us.

We were reaching a normal road, by passing through the common horse riders track gate for this area. here we waited once more. During our ride to there, many loose horses have passed us, and this was really the most amazing feeling ever, to see some of the horses run free on the other side of the river, down below us, us just next to us. It is just amazing because I never had a horse running beside me without a rider, and this gives you some kind of feeling of complete freedom. I was close to tearshed to have this opportunity to take part in this. It is just a little private victory. Because the first Penny horse magazine (a teenage pony magazine) I ever got, in June 1986, had a comic story about the Icelandic horse round-up. This story was my wake up call, and this story has always been on my mind. No edition of Penny has been read more than this one. It was my treasure, and I am so extremely sad that it got lost somehow. It was the only edition I kept after having a subscription and keeping them all for over 10 years. To live this story for myself was just a very very remarkable moment in my life.

After riding for 500 meter on the road, it was time for coffee break. A group of fresh herdmen were in front and in the back to make sure the herd would stay together, while others could go for a coffee in a nearby shed. We waited here for 30 minutes, some drank coffee, some drank Viking and some drank Opal, a very delicious Icelandic spice liquor. It has herbs and licorice in it.
During this break, I got to meet lot of the horses from the herd, who just mingled in with us. Some were laying down, or rolling.

Coffee break in the middle of loose horses

Horses take a break too

Curious creatures :-)

This foal is wet not because of the weather, but because it had to cross the river almost swimming.

The herd rushes from one front to the other, ever bounched back the other way by the herdmen.

After 30 minutes we were on the go again. This time we should stay in the back of the herd, unless you were riding a very fast horse that was not easy to control. Vinur really is a horse that just wants to go, no matter how exhausted he is. But I decided to stay in the back. We are not allowed to ride within the herd at this stage anymore. Riding in the back would guaranty a very nice view to see the herd in front of you. So we left, and not much later, we saw below us on the other side of the river, the other herd coming from another part of the mountains running down to the final destination, the meadows where they will spend the night.
Together with this herd, we are reaching 1000 horses, including 100 riders and about 120 ridinghorses.It was a magnificent sight to see this colorfull ribbon of horses flowing down. Vinur was having his spirit too, speeding up and pacing its way too keep u with the others. Soon we reached a bridge where we could cross the river. A very high and small bridge. but no horse made the mistake to 'forget' entering the bridge thank goodness! Vinur galloped his way to the other side, and I always amaze myself how comfortable the canter of Icelandic horses is. So smooth and liberating!
Snow.... it is not cold enoug to stay but on the manes it may for a while.

Riders appreciate their horses, these two are actually hugging eachother :-)

These two stayed glued together during the whole coffeebreak.

In fast speed we went up hill. From the top we could see the round up coming into sight. Downhill Vinur gave all that he had, we went in an incredible fast flying canter to this place, he was unstoppable, but not uncontrolable. This was amazing. I thought we had reached our final destination here, and let him just go. But after a few minutes it became clear we had to go on because the farm they would stay at was yet another hill away. Poor Vinur. I let him decide his speed and way himself, and I felt his heart beating so loud it again vibrated through my body. But he didn't want to give up and cantered uphill, which seems to be the least exhausting for him. He finally took it easy when horses were loosing out of sight  and he didnt have this urge to keep up with them.

We left our horses there at the farm for the night, and returned to Gauksmyri by bus. It had started to snow quite badly turning the sundawn world around us white.

At Gauksmyri we got kjötsúpa, Icelandic Meatsoup. I normally won't eat lambmeat. But in Iceland I have never made it a secret to eat it if no other possibilities, and I wanted to try it because they say it is so delicious. And hell yes it is delicious! The smell and taste of sheep is there, but the blend of vegetables and herbs make it less worse. I really love this! And you may think soup is just not valid as a full dinner, well this is, because it has lots of potatoes and vegetables as well. It is just the perfect food after a hard day working outdoors. And that is probably why many daytours that have lunch and or dinner included, have this soup on offer. At home I think I will try to make it myself. But vegetarian of course :-)  because I will be vegetarian again when I am back 'home'.

In the evening there was a dancing/party going on in the ridinghall. Lots of people from the area arrived for it, and it went on for a loooong time. But I was suddenly so incredible cold that I didn't feel like it would be a nice idea to go into a not heated ridinghall. I just snuggled up with blankets around the heater and fell asleep. To be woken up by the Icelandic guys arriving back singing at the frontdoor, where my room is situated. It was not annoying. I just like it to see people having fun. That is just what makes me happy. :-)







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