Iceland 2014 Day 9 ~~ Exploring Reykjanes Peninsula Part 2~~

Today is my last day in Iceland. And I decided to make the best of it. Beautifull weather today for exploring Reykjanes peninsula. I left quite early after I had my breakfast, to drive towards the northwestern point of Reykjanes, a small town named Gardur. It was beautifull calm at the ocean, and I could see Snæfellsnes volcano looming in the distance, capped in white snow. There was no wind and it was low tide, so I took a little walk towards the light house and on the tiny beach which was filled with seaweed and birds finding food. Here I planned my further route to drive, I have no navigation so I need to rely a bit on the maps I have for as far as they are of any use.

Passing by some smaller fisherman towns, the road turned into a gravel road, but of good quality. It lead me through the outskirts, where horses and sheep graze. No lava to be seen, except for some rocks here and there. Its beautifull scenic and I pass by Icelands settlement history with stone walls, ruins and points of interest. Though most are on the south side of the peninsula.

I first planned to see galgar, two cliffs that in Viking time was used to hang people (not very nice thing, it is the second point of excecutions I visit here this time). But it was said to be an impressive place to see. But I could not really find it it seems, or I was confused saying it was on the left (inland) side of the road while I didnt cross water. I took some pictures of old ruins/buildings because I wanted to know what these were (I search them with google maps and find photos which usually give enough clues to find out). Weeks later I discovered this was Galgar... so I did visit it).

Next up it was plan to visit the continental rift where you can stand in nomans land between America and Europe. Also a wonderfull area with trolls and amazing rock formations, hiking trails and some people where flying a drone there to take pictures. I decided to have a selfy session there. In a self declared resting break enjoying this last moments in Iceland. My very own sort of farwell and thank you ritual to Iceland.

At the most southwestern point of Iceland we have the town of Reykjanes. And here the continental rift comes spectacular ashore. It is one of the rare places in the world were the gap between the rifts are visible (the other is Thingvellir). A roadsign to Gunnuhver lead me passed by a geothermal plant, but the road to Reykjanes was a real gravel road with ditches and partly under water. I didnt want to go with my car here, and it was too far to walk. I felt I would not see Gunnuhver too, the sign lead me to this gravel road OR a forbidden road to the geothermal plant. If Gunnuhver was there, it still must be closed for visits after a viewing platform collapsed when a new mud geysir was born 3 weeks ago, causing the area to be closed for time being.

I drove back to continue my way towards Grindavik. I entered the more volcanic area again, steam rose up from the earth, and I saw another sign to Gunnuhver, also a gravel road but better than the other, so in slow speed I decided to just go. It was 1 km they said, it seemed like forever.... I drove slow and carefully feeling some kind of stupid. But if I wanted to see something sometimes you need to take challenges. I arrived and marveled on this wonderfull field of volcanic activity. The new mudgeysir calmed down, but breathed huge plumes of 'sulfur smoke'. I am still not sure if this is the actual Gunnuhver, because I think that one is more in the distance in some sort of crater. In this huge plume of fog, the remains of the collapsed viewing platform remains. It is not possible to get them away as the steam is way too hot to do so. It would be suicide to do.

The earth was wonderfull colored and the earth was damping sulfur wherever you look. The ground is hot at most places, you really shouldnt walk barefoot here, like some stupid people at times try to do. You will loose all the skin you have if you take one step wrong.

After hitting the road again, it is all lava lava and more lava I see. Beautifull formations with ever changing surroundings. In this lava are lots of things to see but I missed some. Its mainly craters from long gone very very very heavy eruptions. The Reykjanes volcano system (as it is not just a volcano, but a rift volcano system) is one of the most powerfull and most feared volcanos of Iceland, yet it is dormant and posses no threat, if it awakes it would cause serious problems for 80% of the Icelandic inhabitants. Lets hope it stays calm for many many many eons. It probably will, its pressure is released more inlands and north, with the shield and strato volcanos, and by the continious release of hot steam in this area.

In Grindavik I buy my lunch and some food for tonight. And I drove on, decided to go back the way I drove yesterday. Then I found another road towards Reykjavik and took that one, and it lead my to Krysuvik. Ahhhh I was so happy I did seem to be able to visit Krysuvik after all!
First up we had Grænavatn, the green lake. Beautifill emerald green, several hiking trails lead into the country side there. I really should keep it in mind for another visit, it is completely lingered with hiking trails here probably worth the effort.

Next to Grænavatn is Séltun, the hotspring area of Krysuvik. And a so needed toilet. In the middle of nowhere, thats how amazing Iceland is.
I was alone aside from one single Chinese person who came here by taxi. If you have a dream you can do this to reach it. He must be rich.... or bored by the regular Chinese tourists who sleep most of the time, only to wake up when something spectacular comes up.
This area was also wonderfull, because it is afoot of 2 mountains meeting, and the hotsprings are therefore with difference in level. Mudpots, waterfalls (tiny), hotsprings. And the noise it made you felt like you were in a bathroom after your bustour got hit with a bowel infection. The sounds and the smells are obvious, the earth endless farting away. The colors were even more outspoken than at Gunnuhver. A wonderfull area this :-)

When I took the road further towards Reykjavik, I drove up next to Kleifervatn, the deepest lake of Iceland. On top of a hill you had to pass between two rock formations, and the road changed to gravel, and instantly dived deep down back to water level. My neckhair rised when I tried to pass, and two ravens came screaming and blocking my way. I parked my car, and the two ravens kept playing around my car, looking to me. Likely they get feed by tourists or people, but I am quite sure they convinced me to turn around. That border from road to gravel is magical... I can feel it. It has to be, the world after those rocks look so different, more dark, more rough then where I came from. That probably caused my hair to rise, not even the fact that it went down very steep into the deep. It didnt feel like a good idea.... so I turned around and drove the same way back that I came from.

It was good to check up on places and sights I missed on the way to here. I ended up at Brimmkettil, which was quite a walk away. I could have drove up by car a bit more, seeing I could not imagine with anything in the world the weather to change from very good to very bad. But I left my car on the roadside, not in the least place for safety concerns. So I walked up, and the lava changed to dunes and the dunes changed to a solid wall of lava bricks, probably basalt boulders, to climb towards the cliffs. Unexpectedly (sort of) a mist of seawater flushed in my face when big waves started to crash on the shore. Maybe it was getting high tide, because I didnt notice them on my walk towards the cliff. But I can tell you, it is a magnificent sight, and even when there is barely any wind and the sea looks calm, still the waves crash with huge force and sprays water high up in the sky.

With my mobility issues I didnt wander off too close to the edge, but reached furthest I could to glimps Brimmkettil. I was quite a walk away from there, but had a good view on this bright blue perfect round nature created lagune. Also known as the trollspool. It is possible to get closer, but like I said, I have not the best mobility in the world, so I played it safe and watched it from here. Endlessly filled up with fresh ocean water. I feel blessed I have this amazing weather here, but sadness also fills my heart. 24 hours and I will be ripped out of the place where I thrive. Back to the insecurity of life in a place I struggle to stay alive. And the sad knowledge that it might be longer than a year away before I am back here.

I walked back to my car, continuing my ride and decided to go for one last sight to see, Hafnarberg. No idea what it is exactly but here you can see a lot of birds and occasionally seals and whales. It is even further walking than Brimmkettil. The path is guided by a lot of stone men, many of which give shelter to tiny birds who flew off in fear when I passed by. Affraid I would destroy their shelter. It was such a long walk that the big stone men in the end didnt seem to come closer at all. And dawn already set in. I was not prepared for this and decided with pain in my heart to go back to my car. So I still have no idea what Hafnarberg is. Of course I could have stayed for an amazing sunset, but you can imagine in places like this there is barely any light, especially not with new Moon, but luckily today would be Full Moon. It would be very tricky to find my way back in complete darkness, and the turn to darkness can go quite quickly here. The Moon is really your guide in the darkness.

On my way back I met some wonderfull horses posing in the sundawn. Unfortunately their patience didnt last long, as their owner came by to check on them, and the turned around and walked away the other direction. I went to Gardur again to finally see the sun dipping the ocean, but a big cloud prevented what I wanted to see. I hoped to see the still visible Snæfellsness being topped in pinkish orange sunlight, but it didnt happen. I waved the sun goodbye, and knew I wouldnt see Iceland by daylight for much too long. I so hate the days I have to leave.


Spending my time, I drove back via the inland road to Keflavik. An amazing gift presented itself in the clear sky. A HUGE full Moon rose over the Blue Mountains. One tiny cloud made it look like a pacman, but I have rarely seen a Full Moon this magnificent, this big. I just had to stop. But of course just now, in the middle of nowhere someone was behind me. I let him pass and stopped in the middle of the road to take a quick photo. The Moon was golden in a pale blue sky and the mountains made it look amazing. This has been a precious gift. I would be so happy if Northern Lights would also make an appearance. But no luck, there was no activity detected. 

And not much later, after I returned to my guesthouse, clouds have taken over the sky. My very last very final attempt was to go drive at 3 in the night, because I had to empty my fuel tank. But no matter what I tried, it didnt want to empty. I wish it was like that one week ago in Myvatn... So I returned my car with half of the fuel still remaining. I never ever will rent this stupid car again. :-( The renting company took me to the airport and then my time had come at last... I again failed to miss the plane. What a shame....