I was happy the weather was absolutely amazing. I first drove my bit to Stadarskali to fuel my car and then it would be endless driving in the remote areas of Iceland. The road through Holtavordurheidi was at some points slippery due to frozen patches of water. But not disturbing. Just have to take in mind that this part honors its name as highland, it is really at a high altitude here, though the area itself is completely flat. Not too much long driving later you drive into a canyon again, and it was such a delight to drive here all alone, and finally I got used to it to just stop if I want to take a picture. In the middle of the road if that matters (if you are of course sure there is no one coming ahead or behind you) to take a picture. But mainly I use the parkings which there are plenty en route. And Iceland is great with providing information at such places. So I got to see a part of Icelands oldest carriage roads, the Kattahryggur. A scary looking small road with a deep canyon, but oh so beautifull views. But no thanks, I would not drive it with a car. No way!
The weather was so great I drove a big part with my car window open, sniffing in the fresh air, and even walked outside in t-shirt. Who says Iceland is cold? Ok you got a point that I am a bit crazy ;-) but no one can take away this mighty experience to drive here with the window open. It was such a beautifull day!
On my way I also stopped again at Grábrok and made an attempt to climb to its crater rim. That obviously isnt a very exhausting thing to do, but you know me, I had lots more to see on my way that I had no chance for on the way to Akureyri due to weather (and less time as I needed to drive 400 km more). I really want to give it more time in a next visit. So I enjoyed the views from halfway, ate my skyr and moved on.
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Mt Baula |
Soon after leaving Bífrost I had to leave the ringroad 1 which increased with travelers with every bigger town you visit. After Bífrost it goes quite fast. You had no idea where all these cars suddenly come from, but I think the roads from the Westfjords also interjunct here somewhere.
I took another road towards Thingvellir, it was my idea, in case I had the time, to drive via Thingvellir to Reykjanes. But main reason was to visit Hraunfossar today.
It was a terrible long drive and since I didnt have navigation with me, I often doubted if I took the right way. I passed by Deildartunguhver and decided to visit there again. I was all alone here. Last time it rained and it was not so funny, but the colors are so epic if the steam goes the right direction. Deildartunguhver is a huge hotspring (hver = hotspring). It is a small rocky mountain in a merely plain valley, from which many hotsprings source, and also some hot waterfalls. Due to its nature, this rock pile is covered in varied types of moss, the rocks have all colors of the rock rainbow. This is Icelands biggest hotspring and produces hot water for Reykjavik, Snaeffellsness that is transported via huge pipelines and still cooking hot when it arrives in Iceland. Therefore you see along the ringroad small houses where the water probably is reheated or controled. Or maybe also tapped for local communities.
I continued my way and passed through Reykholt, where Snorri Sturlson wrote his eddas. I visited that also last year, and besides that it was closed. Later I heard some vandals ruined Snorralaug, the hot tub of Snorri on that day/evening. What a shamefull people exist....
I finally reached Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Again I was all alone, but expectedly, not for very long. Still it wasnt enough people to feel annoyed. In fact you only knew there were other people by the cars, but didnt see them on site. Its great to have time to yourself, and can leave when you want to. Hraunfossar looked beautifull in autumn colors. Now I also discovered the 'park' on the other side, which you sure wouldnt visit in winter. Stairs and roads made of stones, risk of slippery, but amazing views and the strange idea the water for Hraunfossar is streaming with huge force underneath you in lavatubes. Hraunfossar means Lavafalls, and it is a waterfall coming from lavarock. Underground water, there is no visible river feeding it. Well maybe in a distance but not here.
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Hraunfossar |
I still couldnt take a lot of photo's which I hate so much. I really need to get myself a good quality huge GB card soon. I already took 1000 photo's this week.
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Horses on the slopes of Hvalfjordur |
Seeing the time I had left to reach my guesthouse (it is a family house who likes to know when you arrive) I decided to not go to Thingvellir and opt that for one of the left days if I really wanted to. So I drove back to the ringroad, and to my sheer happiness I noticed I passed my threaded moment to take the bridge at Borgarness. Scared it would destroy my car even more. For next year I convince myself to take this much longer route again if weather is not friendly. But that idea got destroyed a bit later, when I found out that Borgarfjordur is known for the strongest windgusts in all of Iceland. Bye bye other option....
I thought of taking the short route that we took last year to Hvalfjordur. But I was not sure if it was a decent road to drive. It had 2 digits, and the exit from the current road looked good (no gravel) but that doesnt mean it is completely gravel free. Usualy its paved until the next farm or community and then gravel again. I took the ringroad and took the road over Hvalfjordur again, which was now beautifull and calm compared to the horror of one week ago.
I could not find Fossarétt and really wondered where the hell it was. I first passed another waterfall I wanted to picture on the way to Akureyri, but there the winds were sweeping up so much water, I didnt want to. But now I did. And this happened to be the way to Glymur. For a moment I was tempted. The weather was so good... But I got my happiness from this waterfall in the beginning. Hlymur will wait. Im sure of it. So off again, and not much later I finally found Fossarétt again.
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Fossarétt last week Sunday. Even in the pooring rain worth a picture |
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Fossarétt and its sheepcoral it got its name from rétt = coral/sorting. |
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Upstream Fossarétt |
Now I took my chance to walk up to this waterfall, and noticed this waterfall was much much more than just what you see from the road. it had 2 or 3 more waterfalls upstream, and Iceland experts say it is worth it to walk further upstream because there is more. Sure I believe that with these hills and mountains. But still no time. I have to be in time in Keflavik. Beautifull Fossarétt put on the to do list once more. Visiting Iceland is so much easier if you dont travel too much distance at once.
After Fossarétt I didnt visit any more places. Soon after you re enter the ringroad, it gets more and more crowdy, and I really had to get used to it to drive in Reykjavik again. I followed the route to Keflavik airport, and exactly 17.30 I found my guesthouse quite easily. They said it is difficult but somehow my iphone navigation worked (I thought it only works with internet connection).
I felt a bit rude when I just walked into the house of the owners. Forgetting they are a family renting out their own house for tourists. And there I was in a huge hall way thinking that was the guesthouse :-p But the people were so friendly. The room was downstairs and it was amazingly cozy. I was stunned to find a home like place, with a kitchen and 4 private rooms to it connected. I had a cozy room with a bed I would have loved to take home. Self service breakfast and a fridge full of skyr. Those friendly Icelanders trust in it you only use it for breakfast. Of course I did, but I could buy food and prepare it here for dinner, which is great. Iceland sells this great Swedish toko food, square boxes like a take away with Asian dishes for just 400 kronar (thats about 2.50). And delicious!
I was all alone at this place, and instantly felt at home. I stayed home that evening, still tired after this day full of impressions. Yep it takes time for me to reload it all. But it is such a great thing! Tomorrow new adventures wait. However it will be a calm day. The weather on Tuesday will be much better than tomorrow. So tomorrow I go find an SD card at Smaralind in Reykjavik, maybe visit Lífland the equestrian store, and then I go to Viking World. Maybe go to Blue Lagoon in the evening. Not to visit, just to take pictures maybe if Aurora Borealis is out to play.
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