donderdag 4 april 2013

Day 4 Magnificent West part 2

We drove on towards Vidgelmir, a cave underneath a big lavafield, stretching out for 1500 underneath it. This area is also out of this world, but the roads are getting normal again. So before that, the tires of the jeep got inflated again to right pressure, but that was done already below Langjokull glacier.
Before we went to this cave, we visited Husafell, to go to a bathroom if needed and have lunch there at a what I think is a campsite/recreational area. 

Once at the site of the cave (we should have gone to another one, but there were people placing the highway road blocks, while it is forbidden to pass them, they usualy tolerate 4x4 to pass through, Isaak did not feel nice to pass those men by at this moment. So we visited the other less accesible cave or simply went there from another direction, I don't know...), we had to walk a bit before we reached the entrance of the cave. We had to go down and follow a pile of snowy rocks, with only a rope to hold on to. At this point I decided to stay above the ground safely, I don't have a very good balance, and I didn't want the rest of my holiday being ruined by this legbreaking boulders. I hated it because I know how incredible beautifull lava caves are from the inside. All colors of the rainbow, and this one is also famous for its ice sculptures deeper down. But we were not supposed to get that far. This cave is at private property and is officially only accesible/allowed to enter with a licenced guide to do so. If we were to go down, I am sure it would not be for a long distance anyway. But like I said, I did not feel secure about it to go down.


The entrance from a distance.
The area was very beautifull too. I imagine how this probably looks like in Autumn. My love for Autumn really made another statement here, because despite I love springtime terribly, I usually tend to forget that the springtime I love arrives in Iceland a bit later. Nature is still in process of waking up, and the colors are by far not as magnificent as I silently hoped for. But still, Iceland nature never is dull or boring. I just hoped to see fresh green grass, maybe dandelions flowering, lambs and birds in progress of nesting. Yeah it is a bit too early.


Endless mossy lavafield, stretching out for at least 3 km. The cave underneath for 1520meter

One of the two main entrances, however you can only go down in one. The other you might have to jump (Or just get there via the other one).

There is a hole in the roof ;-)

The roof of the lavacave with its beautiful rocks


After visiting this site, we moved on to two famous and very beautifull waterfalls. One of them is coming down from this very lavafield we just explored. Somewhere there must be a river flowing underneath this lava.
The weather in the west looked a bit nasty, and once we approached the two falls, it started to drizzle a bit. My decicion was made to first visit the fall most far away. Far away.... well 100 meter maybe. But I simply adored this moment to be there all alone, watching this epic bouldering and vicious looking Barnafoss. Barnafoss previously was named Bjarnafoss. But according to legend, at one Christmas Eve long ago, a mother did not find her children at home, while she asked them to stay at home. She followed their footsteps in the snow, leading to the Bjarnafoss, which at that time still had a natural bridge going over to cross from one side to another. The footsteps stopped on the bridge, and the children were expected to have drawned in this raging Hvita (White) river that has to push itself through a narrow crooky fissure having the waters falling down a few meters. It is not really a fall as the name suspects, but it is impressive to see. The mother however was not impressed about her childrens death, and cursed the bridge that no one would ever cross it alive again. The bridge was demolished short after this happened, some legends say it was an earthquake. And the falls got the name Barnafoss, fall of the children. 



Barnafoss

Barnafoss


Barnafoss is hard to picture as whole, since it is going to a narrow fissure and makes several bends and turns. Also the water is raging in white and/or  brightblue and moves extremely fast. It would be a certain death if you fall in the waters for sure. Probably that was the ground for the legend as well, because it is not known if this did happen.

Down the river as soon as the waters have come to ease a bit and turning bright sky blue, Hraunfossar joins in. Hraunfossar means Lavafalls. And many small waterfalls cascade from underneath the lavafield Hallmundarhraun bordering the river Hvita. The lava comes from a dormant volcano underneath Langjokull, and likely the water also comes from this glacier.


Hraunfossar


A waterfall halfway between Barnafoss and Hraunfossar

My best picture of this trip.... Hraunfossar

I just dreamed of how beautifull this must look in autumn. If I return to Iceland in October, which sure still is something on my mind, but is very very doubtfull... I hope I will be able to visit here again. At least this place is accesable with normal rental cars. It is not in the highlands, at least not behind the road blocks...

After a short but time enough to picture visit to this site, we continued our way to Reykholt. It is normally not included in the program, but we had a lady in the group who did very well her homework about the history and sagas of Iceland, so Isaak stopped at Reykholt and put a smile on a face. At this place Snorri Sturlson lived and wrote his eddas. We did a very short walk over the area, Isaak drove around to pick us up, as efficient as ever. It is wonderfull how they try to make everything possible in a most flexible way. We looked at the pool that Snorri had constructed (Snorralaug). And it more often made me smile, because I used to call my (female) cat Snorrie all the time not aware it is an Icelandic name. So if I see a Snorri name I remind my little furball. :-)

Our next and last scheduled visit was to Deildartunguhver. The biggest geothermal hotspring of Iceland. A small mountain in the middle of nowhere that sprouts many many small bubbling and thrushing hot water wells. The sulphursmell was not very bad, but the colors the waters made to the rocky hill are amazing. Together with the bright green moss growing in abundance, the orange and red rocks color perfectly along with hot waterfalls, steamvents, hotsprings a paradise to picture. But the damps were a pest, however Isaak said there was not a lot of damp. Normally you won't see a lot at all. Maybe the air was just not humid enough or the weather too good. Damp more loves wet, moist and rainy weather. But then I remember, it started to rain a bit when we arrived there.... Myth busted...

A hot waterfall at Deildartunguhver

This site produces hotwater for the area around it. And it is funny to see that everywhere small rivers run with hot water, damping their way. I wonder if it would be safe for animals to be out in the fields, but if I know my cats, they are often very carefull with hot water. Without ever touching it.

After we left for our remaining one hour drive to Reykjavik by Hvalfjordur, it stopped raining again. A beautifull rainbow appeared behind us over the area we just visited. I never saw such a bright rainbow so close. We did not have a lot of time to picture it. Just a holdback on the road and open window to take a picture.

The area we drove through was the typical Icelandic landscape, of isolated farms, with waterfalls in their backyards, coming down from the high cliffy hills rising up in the sky. I would so much love it to live at such a place. Common a huge waterfall in the backyard. I would feel like a kid in a candy store. With endless fields to keep horses.

Epic views.....

Drive around Hvalfjordur

Mount Esja from the other side

When we drove around Hvalfjordur, we passed a now 'closed' whale factory. Still the boats were docked, Isaak said they probably had another purpose. I doubt it. Iceland still hunts them. I had a discussion about this with Isaak. I am not against whaling itself, if it involves a species that is common, like minkwhales. Why can we discriminate between cow or whale, it is equal worse. But we discusssed that Iceland usualy get equalled to what happens on Faroer Islands. It is not the same, that masacre is medieval and heartbreaking. I refuse to believe in Iceland it would happen that way.
But well, it remains a sensitive issue to some. I believe it is hypocrite to eat pigs, chicken and cows, and mourn about whales and dogs. I have nothing against eating any animal. I am against the way they are tortured and killed, and the killing of endangered species or species that are just killed for health lies. THAT makes the difference. But even if I saw whale meat in the supermarket and could not resist to take a closer look (because I believe you need to have your information before you can argue about something) I would never ever eat it. Learn about the theoretic facts is my limit.

At Hvalfjordur we stopped at another nice waterfall. I think it is called Fossarett. The sign says so. But since this is also a site of importance, maybe the ancient sheepcoral here is named Fossarett. But 'foss' is waterfall so it is maybe a waterfall cleaning station? Me and my fantasy ;-)

Fossarett

And that is basicly where the day ends. Well... 30 minutes driving to Reykjavik, around Mount Esja. Iceland is so beautful and I have only seen a small part of it....

This might as well be my last blog, because I have no more plans. Tomorrow is my last day in Iceland, going to do some shopping, that is basicly all.
And then I can count down again to a yet unknown date to return to Iceland. I hope it is really soon, but I am afraid, very afraid I will be stucked to my fucked up country for a while. I came here to find work, but I only got the information that it is hard, even most Icelandic people have 2 or 3 jobs to earn a living. Though the unemployment rate is very low here, I probably would only be lucky for summer jobs. But who knows what my received email adress will bring me. :-)





Day 4 Magnificent West part 1

Everybody knows that I sort of curse the big tour operators for screwing up my dream to spend more time in some places to feel the true essence of being in this mighty land. You are never able to feel it when you are among 60 others, especially if they are included Chinese and Americans who typically are around in abundance and noise when you dont want to. So I followed advice and went for the more private companies. You pay more but it is much more custom made.
I went for a company I follow on Facebook. Also because I wanted to visit the areas tourists wont visit with big busses and are not accesable in general this time of year. It is always quite scary to book a company full of trust. They may have lots of tripadvisor approvals, but who says they are real? Well in this case I trust the Icelandic honesty. So I booked this tour that after I miscalculted turned out to be a little bit too expensive. But hey we are the 5 of us including the guide, taking to places that take some effort, lots of km and flexibility. You cant expect them to do this for a bargain.

So in the morning I got picked up. A superjeep stopped at a time after the appointment time. But it was not for me. Though I felt like it was strange. It turned out to be the same company as the one I booked with works together with this one in case one of them has only 1 or 2 guests they will put them together. And this other guy probably was heading out for Landmannalaugar. The tour I at first wanted to do. He went off later with 3 Chinese so god was I happy for choosing this tour!

Not much later my guide arrived. A funny guy named Isaak, but he wasnt sure if he had to pick up me, though he went to Langjokull. Well it was me anyway after he checked and phoned around, so we left and laughed. Me stumbling to get in the superjeep which s quite a gymnastic task, sure with sore and stiff muscles after horseback riding was start of the fun. But he was so typically Icelandic joking about everything from the way they drive, to their weird food habits and beerban that was lifted not long ago, resulting in a national Beerday to celebrate it. It was a nice start and I was more than happy to have the front seat.
Few minutes later we left Reykjavik and the road got empty, the countryside more beautfull and the weather was great.
We went to Thingvellir first. It can never ever compare the way I saw it in autumn. So it was for me a bit confusing. But the view on the lake was amazing. No wind at all, the surface mirrored the mountains perfectly. A few dots of fog gently moved over. But the part which was most beautifull Isaak couldnt find a place to stop. So we drove on to the main spot I was last year.

Thingvellir

This time I thank the gods I could explore much more than just the top of it. Isaak drove the car down and would walk towards us from there and we could take time to find our own way. So we went through the crack and I took the walking path again over it while the others took the beaen track, since one of the others had a disability and might not be able to do the slippery, crooky, rockinfested trail I found my happiness at. Until the ultimate shock of a group of tourist decided the same. One of them a girl taking photos with a sigarette in her hand. Only that picture... And of course the smoke found its way to my nose even better in this crisp clear skies.

Thingvellir standing in the main fissure   

Thingvellir still has some snow laying around

Thingvellir, here the water is incredible blue and famous for diving at Silfra

So I speed up, but I guess this group did not decide to follow me any further. And then, just this glorious feeling.... I am alone! Sort of. Unattached from the mass tourism at one of the most visited sites of Iceland. Between the birchtrees and mossy rocks. With birds singing, the sun shining and the wide open view on the lake, mountains and all that I love.
Of course I could not take the words of 'taking our time' serious. But at least it felt ok I could stop and just feel and sense for every nce in a while. And not have to hurry back because the bus would leave in this and that minute.

Thingvellir looking out over Thingvellirvatn

After our visit and walk at Thingvellir, we visited one kaffibarrin, coffee house for last drink and toilet break, because we would go ignore the roadblocks to head for the western Highlands, which are normaly closed from september until june.

A breathtaking scenery followed, and soon after we passed the very last farms in this harsh landscape, the road turned really outlandish, covered with rocks and ditches and snow here and there. Now you really got the idea why no one lives here. Not even birds. It is all rocks and stones, and while we  had absolute brilliant weather, normaly it is a strong wind blowing and lots of rain and in this time of year snow. Weather can change unpredictably fast here, but we were really in luck that all day it was very nice weather.

The first km of Kaldidalur road from Thingvellir


Rocks everywhere. In summer sheep graze here and lupines flower in abundance

We had a stop at one of the mountain huts, a bright orange hut where people can go to if lost. It has GPS rescue service, phone connection, food, blankets, medical kit and all other necesary rescue stuff there. At this hut we of course did not break in for this things, but Isaak had to deflate the huge tires of the superjeep to drive easier over snowy roads. And we could stretch our legs and I made my way towards a snowman oops snowman???? Stoneman!!! alongside the road. Stonemen are found here everywhere and are like the Viking GPS, helping the people in ancient times finding their way. And some people still use them, since roads can disappear in the snow. But well... it is not at all smart to get here without GPS, however some overwhelmed bikers or hikers from other countries sometimes end up here with just a map in summertime.
  
Stoneman, ancient GPS or trolls frozen in rock?


Our next stop was at a higher altitude, and at this place there was fresh snow all over and here nothing at all grows or lives. The tires got deflated once more because more snow was on the way. And we had there a little break between the glaciers Langjokull and Eiriksjokull. The silence is here incredible. I was with a nice group who just like me enjoyed to take a minute of silence, and I can only agree to the word that real silence is terrible painfull. That weird feeling it gives is unexplainable. I never ever in my life heard this silence. Not the planes flying over, wind that blows, bees that buzz or electricity lines passing by (because I am able to hear those). Moments like this do something with your way of being, your place in the world. You can only have deep respect for the nature around you if you witness this kind of raw nature. And I naturaly imagine what it must be like if one of the many volcanos surrounding us (all of them dormant) decides to wake up.

Rocks taken from the road piled up at a place where nothing at all lives

Out of this world landscape....

Stones laying in a circle. Just a point of interest for me ;-)

More snows and rocks. Only  4 things here, rocks, snow, air and me. (Ah well my 4 fellow tour members too of course)


Just impressed by the incredible silence.....
After this short break here, we head for our next stop, Langjokull glacier. On the rim of it the last time the tires got deflated. We will drive all the way up to the glacier, to the joy of Isaak who already is very excited about the trip back from the glacier. But first he has a surprise for us.

We pass by a husky station, in the middle of nowhere, about 40 dogs hang out on the snow. I don't want to imagine their circumstances normaly because we had such a sunny calm and quiet day, which is not normal. And Isaak has expected it was snowing here. There was however a big grey cloud hanging on the west side of the glacier, but it did not affect us.
Once on top of the glacier, I took my chance to eat the fresh snow (with the saying as long as it is not yellow it is no problem). I wanted to do a snowangel, but this snow might not be as dry as Laplands snow, so I decided to let that idea wait for more arctic climates. Because here on this glacier it was not cold at all.

Langjokull, winterwonderland....

Finaly this peak clears from the clouds on Langjokull

Somewhere there is Eyjafjallajokull, the one that suspended airtraffic for weeks.

If I dont want to make snowangels, got to find something else to do.


Isaak demonstrated how you can build with this snow, and quickly made a table. He had pulled out a bottle of champagne and 4 glasses and we had champagne on the glacier. And delicious champagne it was as well :-) But we didn't finish the bottle. So we took it with us back down.

It was the biggest fun of Isaak, driving down really fast so the car starts to fly. But the bottle of champagne was still open. I tried to film it but the ride was so rough, my battery lid opened of my camera and I thought it broke down. By the time I found that out, we were almost down already. So I missed most part of this hilarious conversation about open bottles of champagne, dull humor and wishes that he would stop driving once the bottle was empty. It really was amazing, I so much loved this tour already! And still so much to see!

Road 550 is already off the beaten tracks, but we decided to take an offroad of road 550 and arrived at a nice not too big but still impressive waterfall. The guide doesn't know its name, and I still have not found out either. I can locate it on maps, but it has no name coming along. What a pitty, it is such a lovely fall, but probably often unseen by tourists, because it lays a bit hidden. Isaak told that this waterfall only is here in spring. It dries up end of may as it is not coming from a glacier, and if the snow has melted, no more water is coming down. Springtime is waterfall time in Iceland. Mainly because the water is fresh. In Autumn there are many too, but due to rain and are often muddy and not much flowing.

The yet unknown to me waterfall


We had to cross the river at the top of the waterfall to continue our way. And along a steep 'cliff' we drove on, until we reached normal road again. We went to Husafell for lunchbreak.



Part 2 is still in progress.... but the blog is getting so long if I put it all in one blog, I will make 2. 
Next blog will contain experiences in a lava cave (or well above it), waterfalls, Reykholt and a tour around Hvalfjordur. It can take 2-4 days before that blog is finished. Still need to process most pictures for that part. Which also means, I can add some pictures to this blog as well.


woensdag 3 april 2013

Day 3 All about horseeeys!!!

Early in the morning after a very sober breakfast of just fruits, pancakes and a little bit of scrambled eggs, I was picked up by Eldhestar transfer service. I didnt sleep well again... and I still felt so miserable in my stomach, I was almost afraid I would have to cancel my ride today. But I remember how well the fresh Icelandic air did me yesterday. Being outside has not let me feel miserable for a second. I took some nausea medication again and went off.

It was a small group being picked up by the owner of the farm. During our 30 minute ride to Hveragerði we were asked for experience in riding. I was again most experienced, but once arrived at the farm it turned out I was the only one riding a whole day tour.
The farm itself is very clean, very modern and full of friendly people. I had kindly asked if they had a job for me, but they didnt respond. Being here at this place I noticed it is people from all over Europe working here, lots of girls but mainly aged around 24. So probably it is the same thing as everywhere, that I am too old. Though I like the place a lot, and it may be necesary I felt it worked way too much on tight schedules, a bit too commercial. Very smoothly our small group was divided and connected to a guide and lead to the changeroom and stable. Within few minutes we were sitting on the horses, and I missed this little moment of connecting to the horse.

In the morning I would ride Stormur, a tiny lightbrow (flaxen) horse. I was alone for the tour I assigned to, but one German girl joined me and the guide in this morning ride. Soon enough we rode through the plains towards the delta of the river Olfusá, on which the Gullfoss is located. During our ride we had many many many gates to open, pass and close. It is an energetic job for the guides. No gate is the same, I guess I have seen hundred gates, fences, ropes, barbwire, electric fence etc.

In the shadows.... it was quite hot in this spring sun, reaching 10 degrees in places in full sun and out of wind.

The hairdo of Stormur

Stormur was quite a handfull. Not that he was bad behaving, but he loves to be in front, and he is not a natural tolter. So I had to work on it to keep him in tolt instead of trott. Tolt for the novice here, is one of the exclusive extra gaits of the Icelandic Horse, a best to describe fast walk which is very comfortable but a bit weird to see to foreigners. When he became tired, he also started to canter, but the canter of Icelandic Horses is amazing comfortable.
Iceland has an incredible lot of horse riding trails, but most of them are full of legbreaking rocks, ditches and as mentioned, gates. In any of these cases/obstacles, Stormur also prefers the security of trotting. As soon as I lost pressure on the reins he took his chance to change. But after a little while and some help and instructions, it got better and it was more tolt again. Still for me it is something very unnatural to do, to just make sure the head of the horse is pulled up to force it to tolt. In the case I would ever buy an Icelandic Horse I surely will search for a horse that does tolt without needing to pull force it to tolt. There must be other ways.... but some horses just prefer one gait over another. And you can't really change that.

It is just one of the things I should get used to in Icelandic Horse keeping. It is different than our way, the people here treat the horses often less like a human than we do, and rely much more on their cultural equine history and old ways, my theory about holistic horsemanship may be something that cannot be applied without having my own farm or business. It is something I have to keep in mind if I plan to go work with horses in Iceland. Though I have come across stables on the internet where they are more accepting the holistic way of horsekeeping. Icelanders are just a nation that had to hold on to ancient old traditions for a long time, and only started to change this in the past 20 years. Not oldfashioned, but being a solitair island made them much more authentic than other countries. Now the rest of the world is in connection, it rapidly changes. It is still rich in equestrian culture, but still in some parts they are necesarry tools to survive. But it has a lot of good things. Horse nations like Iceland have incredible knowledge of understanding horses. I talked about that with the people who worked here. Horses are easier going since they live in herds. Even the horses always staying at the farm in stables, are with two in a stable large enough for them both. They always have eachother without being glued to eachother. Our horses typically live a solitary life, how cruel can you be to an animal that is normally not going to survive if it is all alone? It is the pain I felt lately and made me decide quiting riding lessons. That we gave ourselves permissions to ride them is one thing, but to also take their dignity and freedom to be horse away is a dealbreaker.

After 2 hours we reach a hill close to the river Olfusá, where we have a little break for the horses and time to look out over the delta. In perfect clear conditions you can look towards the ocean, we saw the bridge, though we had very nice and even sunny weather, distant fogging prevented to look further.
Here we also took some pictures. Well the guide took them of me and the girl that was with us.

Endless open spaces of Olfusá river delta. Icelands biggest river.

Me on Stormur who didnt like to stand there alone at all (thats why his ears are backed, he didnt want to stand still either).

After the break we rode back on a little bit different route. Stormur got tired and more and more fell back into trott and canter. And also I became tired and with a sore ass to put it a bit rude. Also, my tailbone still is not feeling ok. Since I felt on my butt in Finland it once in a while starts to ache when I am sitting for too long. If this will continue for more years, I am afraid I have to have surgery on it, either to remove or to rebreak it. Not something I would look forward to....
But sickness had no hold on me for now :-)

Horses everywhere you look, there are more in this picture than you instantly see.

More horses, and this is not the same herd as previous picture

Back at the stables, I had to keep my saddle separated so we could just take it on another horse I would be riding this afternoon. Stormur was soaking wet, he had worked so hard. I could not take a good picture of him, and hoped I would be able at a later moment.
But Eldhestars tight schedule drove me away from the horses to take any pictures at all (my good camera was in the changeroom as well). It is not that it was not allowed, but it was not like Laxness that you had some time to just socialise with the horses. I had half an hour to lunch.

I had to go to the restaurant at the hotel building for lunch. I can't remember I actually let them know I was vegetarian. I surrendered to the always given Icelandic meat soup. If food is included, it contains in nearly all cases this soup. I would have liked to try it, but I got vegetarian cauliflower soup. Not ideal if you have a messy stomach.... but it tasted good, and along there was bread, fruits and vegetables. It was enough for me for the moment. But I rather had the meatsoup I think. Just for the sake of my internal me.

It was time to ride again. I never managed to remember the name of this horse I got. It name meaning 'Dusty' in Icelandic. Translators don't give me the name it was, something like Blaukur... and it was not Rykugum.
My first introduction round gave me the impression I had a fiestier horse this time, eager to work and tolt. This ride to the mountains, I was alone with the guide. But I felt comfortable with this horse, though I started to feel my muscles soring.
Because we were two I got too relaxed at one point and the horse took his chance to lead, the guide got a bit annoyed, but I would have suspected if you have a tour of a guide and experienced rider, you may want to choose two horses that can walk side by side. But those two started to compete, which I don't think was true really... it is what the guide mentioned, but he has his task to lead the group. So I can only respect that. And for the remaing time I stayed behind. A way of riding I just don't like, but ok... it did not ruin the ride. ;-) This horse was a natural tolter and now I could film and take pictures during tolt as well. Relax a bit more, ride one handed or whatever.

The yet unknown horse of the afternoon ride. They were tightening the girth here, just grabbed my chance picture him in between....

We rode to the mountains, to a place called Bloody Hill. I dont know its Icelandic name yet. But here after the settlement, farmers who had unsolvable issues with other farmers, had to fight their justice with their two best stallions. They would fight eachother over, most likely in the reach of a mare, until one of them had died. If the rare case happened both died, the farmers themselves had to fight until one has died. If both died again, naturally the issue would have been solved by this.
So many many blood was spilled on this mountain. We luckily didnt enter this place itself, but stopped 100 meter before. It is typical to see that this mountain also looks more red then the area around it.

On the left the foot of Bloody Hill. I had a full picture but it is disgraced by electricity poles. Common happening in Iceland, they polute views everywhere, but they simply cant go underground....

As we were now halfway our ride, we stopped here for a little break. And enjoyed the view over the plateau blessing ourselves for this beautifull weather. But that weather can change quickly we noticed on our way back.
While we rode up to Bloody Hill we passed a canyon, and now we more went to this direction. This tour has less more gates and fences to pass luckily! We now went to a more offroad trail. Before this we rode mostly alongside the road. It is good that outside of Reykjavik not much traffic is around. But Hveragerdi is rather big town, famous for its greenhouse industry. Here you find the most nordic situated banana plantation in the world. Believe it or not... it might as well be the only or biggest banana plantation in Europe (but don't sue me, I think Spain has some too). Still most bananas you buy in Iceland are from chiquita.

But we were not riding in Hveragerði, but in the wide open spaces. Or well now it is more on the rocky slopes below the mountains. Now the guide invited me for some fast tolting experiences. That was really nice :-) All I did so far was just the regular speed tolting, and now it was heads up and find the limits of the horse tolting speed! Amazing, really like flying through the Icelandic landscape, this picture I had seen some times now in Iceland, people riding their horses in the landscape and all you see is the legs moving and manes fly. This awesome view, and now it was my turn to really fly!
The guide told me my horse might be five gaited too. I noticed at one point a clear left right left right swing so I asked about it. But if it was pacing, it was not for long. To be honest, pace seems a bit scary to me, it needs so much balance, speed and skill to ride it. It was unlikely to be pace however but it was funny to talk about it.

Basalt rocks on our way back to the stable

The last bit of our ride we went into a sheep paddock, such a lovely field with lots of lava rocks, water flowing through, situated below a mountain and not flat itself. Here we has a few cattle/sheep trails to follow our way but that meant we could no longer tolt. It was ok because I felt rather devastated. We ended up on the other side of the road of the stable, and the idea we had to go back to the river where we could follow the river under the road didn't appeal to me. It would mean 45 more minutes riding. But rescue was there... we would cross the road. Only we had to dismount, and then I really felt wrecked. On the other side it was a hell to get back on, no matter how tiny the horses are. I did not mount a horse from the ground for nearly 15 years now...
One thing is for sure, if I am going to do the horse round up later this year, I will need to practice riding longer and mount from the ground. To not make a complete idiot out of me ;-)

Back at the stable the horse was quickly taken away to care for and I had to pick up my things, and fetch some included drink and Icelandic rhubarb cake. I don't fancy rhubarb, but this cake is delicious :-)

And then it was time to return back to Reykjavik.

First thing I did was going to the hottub. I arrived at the hotel shivering, not because I was cold. The hottub was the only place I could feel at ease. Being 41 degrees normaly you can't stand staying too long, but I got frozen when I left it, so I stayed in it for like an hour. I did some swimming to warm up but it did not work, I kept shivering and feeling cold. So again I plunged in the hottub, I just overthought the day, snoozing away in the cozy warm waters...

I loved the day a lot but I missed the horse interaction before and after riding. I am custom to taken well care of a horse before and after riding but I did not even get a chance to pay gratitude to a horse the way I normally would. And that feeling bothered me for some time. Both for Stormur and the other horse.
I had a silent hope for a chance to work here, and despite of it being a lovely and vibrant place I don't know if this strict scheduled and well oiled business is my kind of place. It could be however... after all I have been told quite some times by several people that I need something more scheduled in my life because that is what I lack. But the kind Icelandic girl who speaks Dutch, gave me an adress of a stable that currently looks for help during the summer and maybe for longer. And if this can't be coincidence, I have the idea this is the place where I think of going to do the horse round up in October. If only I had the possibility and money.... I will check with them when back in Holland.

By now I was shrimpled like a raisin of the warm waters. Some other guys came to the pool not showering and I started to feel like being Icelandic. It somehow annoyed me, they didnt do... I mean showering naked is one thing but at least do shower in stead of jumping in the water with all of your today sweat and dirt attached to your body. I did not like the idea... So I left the hottub. The shower felt icecold to me, but I love the hotels Soley shampoo so much, so I took the lukewarm (in my emotion now icecold water) for granted.
I went to my room, thinking I might have low bloodsugar levels causing the shivers and cold feeling. I did not eat a lot today. It made me feel better, but I fell asleep early. Probably also just too tired after 3 wrecked nights.  Or maybe indeed a flu trued to get hold of my imunesystem... I wish it luck!



dinsdag 2 april 2013

Day 2 Whalewatching and hanging around in Reykjavik

Another bad night sleeping. Maybe a minor jetlag, because at home we went to summertime and Iceland is now 2 hours later than us. So all in all missing 3 hours is the feeling. Iceland has no summertime. But probably that faulty salmon of yesterday came alive and kicking in my stomach. But I felt a craving for food and I simply love the breakfast in this hotel with house baked still warm bread, so much fresh fruits, pancakes, cookie and muffin buffet and anything else to make me happy.

So I was happy when it was time for breakfast. Very early I was there, and because the hotel was by far not as full as last visit, the situation was slight different, parts of the breakfast room closed, but all the goodies still there except for the pecans and maple syrup to go with the pancakes. Instead they had some sugar derivate which probably cant equal our own Dutch syrup or even maple syrup. So I went for the blueberry marmelade coming along with it. Delicious too I must say! I was quite hungry normaly I dont eat a lot at first mornings. But now I did, healthy things, lots of fruits. Until two fat Americans came sit next to me with their cardio arrest breakfast, stinking even more than the salmon I had last night. Time for me to go.... I already felt my stomach playing tricks with me for this smell.

The hotel offers s free buspass during your stay so I decided to take the bus to the center of Reykjavik. No big deal, it is only 5 minutes by bus, and do like the Icelanders, why walk if you can do it on wheels? Well I in the end had to walk because I missed the bus, and the one and only bus did not come even close to the area of the harbour. I would miss my boat if I waited for the next. So I went walking. Which is no big deal, it is only 20 minutes if you exclude the waiting time for trafficlights to cross Hringbraut, the Reykjavik ringway, which you should consider as an Icelandic highway. No you wont cross a red light, but if you do the 'sugarhouse' Landspitali  (nickname Sjukrahus) is on the other side. But I still want to do a lot of things. I decided to wait for the lights turning green.

I walked my way to the center, trying to figure last visits way, but I found out I was very close to Tjornin, Rekjaviks pond, so why should I take the touristic route if it can be faster? So along Tjornin I walked, duckies kept sleeping even if I almost stepped on them. Swans were trumpettening and some for me unfamiliar ducks had to be pictured. I know now they are eiderducks. In Reykjavik I loved to see crocus flower every where, and tulips sticking their first leaves above the ground. Even here they put some smiles and colors to the world.

When I found the company to do the whalewatch, it started to rain a bit. I had to wait because the boat was not here yet. Above me a raven flew over screamng. As if it was meant for me it got quiet when it passed in the distance. Not later I heard a raven again. Two were arguing above me on a rooftop. It is amazing to see raven, I was told they do not adapt to city life, but why did this two apparently do? I have seen quite some ravens in the time I am here. And to some people who might say they were no raven, yes they are, simply because crows and jackdaws dont live in Iceland. The two ravens took off to other skies, and it started to rain harder. I was glad at the same time we were allowed to board the boat. Sitting warm and dry.

Rosin, the Rose. A not too big ship for whalewatching.

The rule has no exception, we had to wait for a young Chinese couple. Just like it happened on the tours last year. I amaze myself that in any tour, any activity it is always Chinese we have to wait for.
The boat was full, and it was a nice choice choosing this one over Elding. This boat was much tinier, it was bloody fast and had an incredible stable move. Not a single moment to feel tossed by the ocean.

Waters splash up alongside the boat.

Because of the speed lots of water was being splashed up, and the back of the boat sometimes disappeared below the waves. After 30 minutes we reached deep enough waters for whales and dolphins. Soon we spotted a pod of whitebeak dolphins, but they were asleep so we only saw them surfacing to breath, not to catch fish. We stayed for 15 minutes before continuing. We didnt find anything else except for a harbour porpoise, which only a few saw in an eye blink. Though I expected it to be much colder, I went inside to warm up, and remained there, because there was nothing to see. It was still raining and the boat speeding up to return to Reykjavik made even more water come up. We had a no succes trip. And this was the only thing I disliked, and Elding would have been better. Elding would have given us a refund or a new tour if we saw just a few dolphins and no whales. We now payed to see a few sleeping dolphins, it is not a whale. So if I ever went again, I think I would not go with this company again. You can have bad luck, and see nothing its true, but make a policy, even if in this case you see few dolphins give some refund, even if it is just half. And not limit it to refund only if you see nothing at all. It makes me feel like they can just scream there is something at 1 o'clock of the boat, and than tell you to pay because we saw it but you didn't because you didn't look right. After all they made a cost to have this trip going, it should be payed somehow. But whale watching tours arent anything cheap, and chances that I would go again, and again with this company are very small. I will go to Husavik for a next tour.


So this is what I payed 40 euros for... seeing a fin from a sleeping Whitebeak dolphin. But at least I saw wild dolphins :-) Think positive!


After the tour I went to buy some food. Amazing to see how much Dutch things there are in the stores, fresh herbs, vegetables, fruits, drinks, pickwick tea, ricecrackers, our ecological brand Ekoland was also supplied. Main thing for me was skyr, lots of skyr. I took a sturdy box with me to take some home. In the event it would break it would be no problem. I also took natural skyr. I got a recepy in which you can make your own, but you need to have a real skyr 'culture' because making this yourself is almost impossible. If anyone wonders what skyr is, it is Icelandic cream yogurt. It has a taste that equals nothing, it is somewhere between creamcheese and milk and greek yogurt, a bit of all and of nothing. But most of all incredible healthy, for as we can call dairy healthy. I simply love it and now I take some happiness home. :-)

I went through some other stores, searched for the chocolate volcanos but I cant remember where that was. I will try again Friday. Because now I decided to go to the hotel to drop off my things, go for the hot tub and then Kringlan, shopping center. Because it still rained.

I love the hotels pool, but not the fact that Icelanders are custom to double shower before entering the pool. Once naked and once in suit. I showered in my room, so a quick turn would do. Because it is not a matter of just showering, you have to scrub the 5 points of 'interest'. And I hoped to be alone but I was not. Luckily the lady was Icelandic, that can make a difference if you find things like this uncomfortable. She understood and left so I could do it my own way. I do agree it is the way it shoud be, but in our culture we are taught to be ashamed of our bodies, and if showering naked, we will be kicked out, or called pedophile for no reason. We would have people who fancy to see others shower, staring unwanted at you, compare point and laugh. I still have traumas...
And I always try to remember who are the sane ones, the Icelanders who dont care and just do what is right and hygienic, or the other world who stares and laughs and jumps in with sweat between his/her bums.... I know the answer.... And hope by time and patience I can get used to it. I love to swimm, and keeping tied to our cultural shame would exclude me from cultural happiness here. It is not what I want. And like the Icelanders themselves say, the one who doesnt join will stand out. In other words, you will draw attention if not doing the same as all the others. It is very true. But it remains something yet 'unnatural' to do... but still I prefer the Icelandic way.

The pool is incredible tranquile. With geothermal water (they for some reason want to make believe it is salt, but its not...) aromatherapy, blue, pink and purple light it gives such a relaxed sphere. As well as some not annoying new age music. Spending time here in the 41 degree hot tub (whch is in Iceland usually square and big enough to hold over 12 people) is amazing, as well as floating around on the nibit sticks. The floating sticks put under your knees and arms, and you can just lay back and relax, taking care not to bump your head to the pools walls. But it has overflow system so it is rather harmless.
Later some Brittish girls and guys came, the girls had problems with the nude showering and Icelanders will point you that if they are aware, these people are in some ways very tight to the rules. Nobody was aware except me, but they arrived completely dry. With lots of noise, splashing, diving and they messed the changeroom and bathroom by continiously walking in and out. Time for me to leave, and left a message to the desk about them and the changeroom becoming a swimmingpool covered with towels on the ground and messy in general. I dont know what they did with this news, but sometimes Britts can be so invasive, not always, dont get me wrong... But it was time for me to leave.

After having relaxed a little bit I decided to go walk/climb up to Perlan, the old watercollector building of Reykjavik, which now gets water straight from the source in the volcanic mountains not far away. From the hotel the hill looks poorly planted, you expect a way up through some empty bushes Iceland would call proudly a forest. I did not go there with more then normal expectations, but returned home totaly mesmorised. It is an awesom piece of nature, silence, singing birds, boulders, moss, birchtrees and pinetrees. bigger hiking path running along side many many crosscountry biking routes. Those biking routes I found out were so much more epic than the hiking roads, so I soon followed those, climbing over huge rocks. The bikers must love a challenge to cross all these mossy boulders by bike on paths that can be tricky and steep.
 
I even found a huge hole in the hill, which I think must have been a water reservoir too in (ancient) times ago. Now nature has taken it over and some Icelandic guys were rock climbing there which it was very suitable for. If you take care of loose rocks that is. Paths circle all around Perlan. It was getting the famous time of 6.30 and just like at home, the Icelandic people head out on this beautifull evening for a walk with or without dogs, to go run, bike or just enjoy some time off. I reached Perlan almost completely out of stamina. A huge grassfield on top with wildered rabbits all over the place. I kindly call it rabbit hill now. :-)
I took a look inside of Perlan, the saga museum was closed and there was not much to do. Inside they had a Geysir demo model pouring out water every few minutes. Cold water, there must be a hot water one outside, which I went to next. It was not working. It is an artificial hotwater geysir only working in summer.

Artificial geysir next to Perlan
 Then I decided to walk my way down again back to the hotel. It felt like you could walk here for hours without crossing the same path twice or more. And it was so awesome beautifull! With the sun lowering down on the horizon it started to look mystical. I know the Icelandic Asatru group has its home on this hill too. And I think I found out one of their ceremonial places hidden in the forrest. A stone circle with a fireplace, sheltered by rocks and trees. At least I think it belonged to them, cant know for sure of course. But out of respect, I just looked and did not wander around or take pictures. I am carefull with the powerfull energies from here and from the hidden people alike.









During my walk, which I did on the bikingpaths rather than walkingpaths (which were straight plane and boring) I sometimes noticed people created paths straight through what I suspect be the homes of the elves. Sometimes I refused to continu the walk and found another way. It is weird but for me the only natural thing to do. See I do believe in elves and other creatures we cannot all see but defenitely will be aware of their existence one way or another. If you don't, they will do it themselves. I can know because the perks made some of my pictures vanish. They can be rather naughty ;-)

Finaly back at the hotel I bought a chicken wrap for dinner. But then I again started to feel sick. My stomach really is messed up and I didn't take my nux vomica with me. Instead I still had the cursed domperidon, which is said to have killed some people solely to the intake of it. Well... my positive attitude, then I at least die in the place I love. I took them anyway to feel a bit better. But again it would be a devastating night, and I just hope I would be fit enough for the big day tomorrow. Horseback riding!



maandag 1 april 2013

Off to Iceland again :-)

There I am, laying on the bed of my Flora room, endulging myself on this brilliant view towards Mount Esja towering 'above' Reykjavik. Compared to last years room without a view I cant be happier than I am now with top level well over 70% sky view. I can sleep underneath auroras IF they will appear. Or at least await the solar storms from warm inside.

Mount Esja, it looks very close but it is a (short) ride away from Reykjavik, and loved for Sunday hiking by locals.


The in my opinion ugly Hallgrimmkirkja is also a bit in view (not on picture, the churches shown are smaller ones I don't know). To remind me I am in Reykjavik. It is not that I think it is ugly, but in general I have problems with marks of religion towering over the world. It is too big, too dominant, standing there like an everlasting statement that the church is all that matters. And I of course also feel this ancient pain christians delivered to other religions in the past and still present. I dont hate them, but it is an itchy ancient scar, that hurts with my own feeling to be equal and humble. We are all part of nature and nothing or no one is better or worse unless we pretend ourselfs to be. I am happy though that Icelanders in general are quite liberal concerning religion. In their churches there is place for pagan traditions, the elves, dwarves and trolls and for me that can only be good for the world. To respect one others religions, believes or ideas. Vikingblood runs very strong but wise personalities I guess.
On the other hand, Hallgrimskirkjan, it is Icelandic, and the idea they tried to make it from natures heart, look like Svartifoss and the basalt pillars you find in many places on Iceland does good to me. Because it connects the religion to the nature around it. There is beauty in anything and everything. And I would be the last one to refuse saying that from the tower of Hallgrimmskirkjan you have one of the best views over Reykjavik and its surroundings.

On the other side I view the green hill of Perlan. But I prefer the view of Esja. The sky is looking like it wants to clear itself, that is good because the positivo in me hopes the northern light tour will take on. But I know it will be minor chance the auroras will show tonight. Perlan (the Pearl) is the former hotwater resevoir of Reykjavik, just before the bigger one residing inlands in the mountains was build. Perlan did not have capacity to serve all of Reykjavik. Today it is home to an exposition center, the Saga museum and one of the best restaurants in Reykjavik and if I am not mistaken also of the world, since it is listed in one top 5 of the world list. But I cant remember which one. For sure you can forget about it to just walk in for dinner. It typically is fully booked weeks in advance. But, it is also rather expensive.

But well.... that is some stories I maybe find out later this week....

How I got here on the view on heaven is another story, that will not be a long one. At exactly 14.00 we left on the plane called Surtsey, after the youngest island on our planet. A volcano of 'just' 50 years old (surface age because maybe it is much older but never came to surface before). We had extremely nice views over Holland, flying off north I saw Amsterdam, the province of Northern Holland, and our Dutch isles Texel, Vlieland and Terschelling.
After crossing the sea we flew over clear sky Scottisch Highland, Lch Ness, isle of Skye and the other islands 'floating' there. Scotland was covered in snow.

Skottish Highlands just west of the Isle of Skye

Iceland was densely clouded, I saw Myrdalsjokull clearly, as well as parts of Reykjanes, but picture taking was not able as we did not fly along the coast like last time I went to Iceland. We proceeded landing straigth after seeing the shore of Iceland appearing. Snowy like Scotland. This time we had to make a circle as we would land from northwestern direction, we flew through dark grey clouds causing the plane to shake, but our cute long haired viking like pilot put the plane well on the ground. It was not as shocking as my previous return flight which did give me slight fear to fly to be honest... It is not that I am afraid to fly but when the plane starts to fall down, loosing height or battles the wind, I feel all my blood flow for safety and close to fainting. I don't know why but I am only scared this will be the 'lucky' flight to hit the ground instead of touching the ground. But that last flight to Holland, that was really a moment I almost passed out. I have never ever felt so relieved when we safely landed. 
Then finally in Iceland and I was amazed to be out on the flybus in just 20 minutes after the plane landed. In all my happiness I forgot to buy food and change my money and also got caught in an april fools joke about solar activity. I feel so stupid.... but it doesnt matter I am home where my heart is. For a moment forget about all the sorrow and misery back in Holland. Im here to fill my dose of happiness to survive my life. And that is no joke. I really have no clue what my life would mean if I didn't have times like this to be in the place I love so much.

And here I am in my hotel. Waiting to go down to check about a northern light tour. I doubt I will be out tonight. If not, I go have a decent dinner and have a walk here around Perlan. After tomorrow weather will improve, but the promised rain did not yet fall here, so call me happy if I wasnt already.

Not much pictures yet with this blog... I'm sure I can fetch beautifull pictures of Mount Esja later this week, when weather might improve. So I might try, but not in a hurry. Gosh, I'm so happy. But would be most of I had my fuzzies with me. We had a cat on the plane today, transfering to the USA. I talked with a Dutch family who had their single way ticket today. Lucky them. But I hope one day soon I have a one way ticket and 2 cats with me too. I can only hope this luck is on my side.











I had my dinner and I wish I didn't have it. The hotel restaurant is very poor with vegetarian options. Since (I believe) Icelandic meat is more organic than you can ever dream off (cattle is not vaccinated, does only get pure raw food, roam free year round and have time to grow), I do not bother about eating meat here. I even would not mind about eating lamb, but I would not choose it myself. I decided already in Holland I would choose the hamburger. But I was about to make the most stupid mistake of my holiday to choose smoked salmon. While I most of the time get sick of smoked salmon. But this was a special smoked salmon... It was hot smoked salmon. Yes it is always hot smoked. And it is famous as being one of the best in the world. But this one they probably put underground near a volcano steam vent or preferably close to a lavaflow. And leave it there for 'just' a while. What I got here was the most disgusting smoked salmon I ever had in my life. And I was resistantly eating it making my stomach more and more upset. This blubbery decomposed smelly and bad tasting mess. Sorry Icelandics... I do know you have good food, but this is my emotion towards something I ate when I know my stomach has problems with it.
So I turned out to feel terrible the rest of the night. I was even happy for not having a northern light tour, because a bad driving or shaky experience would have made me puke. I felt so bad. Not really sick but just not happy and my stomach didn't tolerate anything after. I fear this will be a very cheap holiday concerning food....

But also I will never eat smoked salmon again ever. Goodnight....

zondag 24 maart 2013

One more week!!

One more week to wait and at last my trip gets some sort of shape. Last week I got offered a tour to the Kaldidalur highland area. I instantly loved this tour that got offered instead of Landmannalaugar. The idea to go glacierwalking, visiting a lava cave and two stunning waterfalls (Hraunfossar & Barnafoss) alongside some other sights made me drool. The name of Hraunfossar (Lavafalls) kept buzzing in my mind as if this is a place I HAVE to visit (is there any place in Iceland I wouldnt?). So I set my mind to this. But the next day the guide offered me a tour to Landmannalaugar. And that confused me because ever since I was a child I have had this dream to visit Hekla, and this tour would go to her summit. Well one of the many because Hekla is a fissure volcano system and therefore has more long stretched craters. But this was and still is a dream of me. With Hekla my Iceland lunacy started. My first school presentation was about Icelandic volcanos (mainly Hekla in my case). To be followed by Iceland general, Icelandic Horses, Vikings and then my school told me I was not allowed to have anymore Iceland related presentations....

Barnafoss (Childrensfall) I suppose...

I had a hard time choosing, but decided to stick with the Kaldidalur tour. Simply because of the crazy cold spring we have and probably can touch Iceland as well. Landmannalaugar is normally open from halfway June until end of August. Chances are rather big weather conditions would kill my dream. However this tour does not at all mind about a bit of snow, since it is with a superjeep. But they won't risk anything, and I know myself how devastated I can be if something I looked forward to is not going the way I planned it. I simply think the Kaldidalur tour is more weather safe. It is also highlands, and only accesable between June and August. I wont have to fear busloads of tourists here which is a huge relieve. And my tour is with max 6 people including guide. Which is perfect. But I realised too late I used a wrong calculation to value the Icelandic Kronar. It turned out to be a very expensive tour. But I trust it is worth the tranquility, personality and quality. I rather pay this price than 60 euro's for being crammed with 60 others in a bus.

But first I have a day tour horseriding. Without beginners :-) And hopefully and I suppose with some spare horses walking alongside in a herd. Because I know they normally wont ride a horse for longer than 2 hour, and my tour is 5-7 hours depending on the weather and directions. I am very curious to this one. It has been over 10 years since I rode 7 hours in one go. My longest ride after that was just 1 1/2 hour... but with the comfort of the Icelandic Horse I am not afraid. Besides that last 7 hour ride I did after not ride for 6 years due to an accident I had. I survived and it was on a lovely playfull stallion. I just hope the weather will be ok. 7 hours of rain is no fun, but the rainsuits are better than my own I had to 10 hours rain in Thorsmork. ;-) 

So now I have 3 tours and 2 whole days off to do whatever I wish to do. Exploring Reykjavik a bit more. I wanted to use it to rent a car and go out on my own, but I encountered some serious financial struggles which scare me. I am afraid I can't do anything anymore when in Iceland than just do the tours, be there and live the day on breakfasts energy. :-( But on the other hand I am happy I took this risk to take this holiday now instead of Autumn. Because the future looks grimm, and my plan to do a round up has never been further out of reach than now. Especially since I need to book it in time, due to populairity an it being in the same week as Icelandic Movie festival which is rather populair also by foreigners. This might be the last time I visit Iceland if life continues the way I left it when going to Iceland. :-( And to be honest I even feel Iceland is the only thing that can keep me alive. My life has no meaning without it. And that is just what bounds me to this mighty land that is so full of loneliness, stretching its glacial arms, mountains, rocks and waterfalls out to the world, to be touched by its magic. It is the only place I know so far that can equal my heartbeat in its rhythm. It is the place I could be until eternity, staring at the ever changing horizons, being poured over by snow, rain, dust, ashes, storms and a few sunbeams. To submerge in its waters and go with the flows, down waterfalls, icecubes, hotstreams all the way to the oceans. To be covered in darkness just to be lightened up by millions of stars and dancing auroras (if weather permits). To dance with the whales and fly with the puffins. To ever roam the meadows, accompanied by sheep and horses, not seeing humans, but feel one with the elements that surround me. Or being taken over by hot lava, or trushed out by geisirs into the sky. My Icelandic imaginary is very alive you see ;-)

I dream on and already dislike to know my ticket has 2 dates on it. One day it will only have 1. Until that moment I just dream of all the things and beauty I still want to visit in Iceland. However I know a bucketlist makes no sense, because I want to see everything in every season in every type of weather. I guess I just want to follow my dream to find myself a horse and explore the country together. If only that dream can come true. Luckily I believe in dreams, and magic.








zaterdag 16 maart 2013

2 More weeks....

Oh I am getting more and more ready to return again. Would I have ever thought visit Iceland 2 times a year? In my most harshest times of my life? Nope... but I do believe in miracles.
Still working out my way to plan and see what I want but mainly can do. So much to see, so much I want to do. But life restrictions keep me bounded to stay that kid in the candy store that has her hands tied to her back, being told to only see, smell and feel. But for me that is enough. Any small connection to Iceland is for me enough to let me be free from the madness and sorrow that tries to influence my life.

My only 2 things scheduled so far are a longer horse ride. Now I go for a 5 hour ride, which I terribly look forward to. I miss my forlegged counterparts in my life. And it is weird that I can't afford riding, but spend a fortune to go riding far away. But give me a choice between one year riding lessons and a 5 day trip to Iceland, and I choose the last. I'm curious to this experience at another place. I loved Laxness Farm, but was afraid to end up with tourists, so I choose a longer more experienced tour this time. At least I would think to expect to have a bit more power into the ride. I had at Laxnes but my experience with guiding tours myself could not let me go to keep eyes and most of all my worries about the others stumbling around and in my opinion mentaly disgrace the horses. I hope this time I will have my go and better weather. But am very aware that April might not be as gentle and nice as my autumn trip has been. Depsite the rain, April might be much colder. But it is Iceland, I can't know what to expect until it is time.

Then, I also have my northern light tour. Last autumn it was cancelled over and over again. But I didn't get my refund. And then I thought why not give it a try for my next trip, and retrieve my money if Friday it still did not happen. I cannot afford the car to drive out a little bit. Nor am I doubtfree about the fact finding my way back home without getting into trouble ;-) I know myself.... even with navigation.

Then of course my main reason to go to Iceland. The Horse Festival. Looking at the program I am afraid it will pass me by completely. Not much going on except for visiting farms (which I can't because of no car) and the main thing being on Saturday on which I am being sad back at home. It is a pitty.... sometimes I am such a mess. But I will enjoy myself, and hopefully also being able and maybe succesfull finding a job over there. I more and more regret I never took my chance years ago when I got it. I could have been happy in Iceland for many many years already. And now, in these days jobs there get scarse, everybody wants to go there. But it is typically me to let chances untouched. Last year I made the promise to myself to never ever let that happen again. No horse will leave my life if it is meant to be in it. No job offer will be unconsidered if it comes to me. No cookie will be refused when given, and no interesting guy paying interest be ignored. It is time to stop being blind for my path of life. So... I will be happy going to Iceland and do whatever I can to work on my dreams. But mainly preparing for some things that have been running like crazy through my mind for a loooong time. So I guess about next year if circumstances allow me, I for once have to let go my pride and visit Iceland in June. For midsummer camping, Landsmot, see puffins and get really pissed off and frustrated by all the tourists. And Iceland knows what more. The only 2 dreams I cannot control are seeing a volcano eruption and true mindblasting northern light displays. I guess that involves a long term stay in Iceland. But no worry one of my maindreams is to stay at least 3 months in Iceland in one go. It HAS to happen, it is something that is on my mind for centuries. I want to cross Iceland, and most likely on horseback mainly. On a horse that is mine, which I will keep. And that is a mission that takes a lot of preparations. Not in the least place to find this horse that I think has a spirit to do this dream with me.

Why is it that I always start to dream when I write or think about Iceland??? I guess the Icelandic inspiration flows far and wide. I may not be Icelandic. But I think my connection to the land and the Earth we live on, helps me to get this naturally inspiration that is in all that was born and created on Iceland. Bringing this wonderfull music and artistic skills into the world. Though I must say I lack any taste for arts, I simply don't like it. Also not the Icelandic. Except for the art of Nature itself. But what I do value is the fact that I feel and see Icelandic inspiration comes from the restless Earth.

But.... 2 weeks before I go again. Nerve wrecking. I wish it was tomorrow. I know time will fly quickly, because I feel like it was yesterday when I said it was still 4 weeks to go. But I have this kind of feeling this trip can be life changing. Not in the least place that I notice I leave decisions & commitments for April. I have this gloomy feeling I am more able to do when I return back home.

Who knows.... for now I start dreaming clearer and slowely but steadily prepare. Iceland I missed you terribly... how rough will it be this time to go back home? I shiver when I think of the flight, even the plane seemed to be not amused to leave its origin. This time I will take some tranquilisers, last thing I need is to turn afraid to fly, a psychic thing I fully understand now... Afraid to fly would mean I won't go to Iceland anymore, because by boat is too expensive and as you imagine, it won't be comfortable either during stormy tides in autumn....