Iceland 2014 Day 9 ~~ Exploring Reykjanes Peninsula Part 1~~

On the 9th day I didnt do a lot due to circumstances. In the previous 8 days I took so many pictures that I didnt have any memory left and I needed to find a new SD card to not be disappointed for too less photos. I didnt take a lot, maybe just 8, photos today. It already felt miserable to me that I couldnt shoot and click unlimited. Also my ipad had problems with its memory, it had 12 of its 16 GB used in some mysterious matter. I had no clue in what as I barely had photo's on it, and deleted almost all of my apps, music and other memory killers. So my spare memory there was gone too.

But where do I find SD cards... I could not find photography stores on internet, I really had no idea, so I decided to go to Reykjavik, to be precise to Smaralind shopping mall to hopefully find a store there. And having to do this I decided also for a short tour back via Blue Lagoon and then go visit the Viking museum in Keflavik. I thought about being smart to see where it is beforehand, but without navigation I could not find it. The first time ever I noticed Iceland was not to clear with road directions to where to go. But I had time, plenty of time with no plans today as the weather forcast was quite windy and much better tomorrow. A day to take it easy and maybe go to Blue Lagoon after all, so I took my bathingsuit & slippers with me. However I was quite sure I wouldnt get there anyway. I just longed for the idea to soak in a hot tub. The one at Skjaldarvik I didnt use with their chlorine infested water. That can only mean some filthy scurfy tourists are prone to use it without cleaning themselves before hand. My first visit to Iceland was to Blue Lagoon and it was shocking to instantly in my first hour be confronted with the bathing rules of Iceland. But it was also life changing for me, because how completely different I look now to swimming pools, and how aware am I for all those people here that on a soarching hot day jump in with all their sweat, dirt and goodness knows what else still attached. No wonder a toxic chlorine cloud is always to be found on our swimmingpools. That terrible smell that lingers around you for days, a nose that hurts when you step outside and inhale fresh air. I am still not very much friends with the Icelandic swimming pool rules but for a clean swimm you have to 'suffer'. Well I do.

At the end of the morning I arrive in Smaralind, to find most shops still closed. What a bummer, but they had a wonderfull wool and handcraft store looking at me like a walhalla. But I wouldnt be me if something screwed the fun. I forgot my creditcard. At least I thought. And I only had about 6000 kronar with me. Oh nightmarish.... that should happen to me :-( So I skipped this store, searched for something that could buy a SD card. I ended up at Hagkaup. They had SD cards, but not the fast speed I looked for. Anything better than nothing, I bought one and put it in my pocket camera, moving some of my better high quality photo's to that card making some free space on my HD SD 400x card. And I bought a lot of wool, knitting needles until I had no more money. I tried using my other bank card but it was not activated for international use. How nice.... :-( But I had my card and wool and needles and some lunch, so I moved on to take a ride to somewhere. In my mind I had to go to Thingvellir, but no navigation.... I found my way to the ringroad (actually I landed on it before I knew it, the only chaos driving without navigation is in greater Reykjavik, outside the cities it is really not necesary to have navigation (but still easier). And instead of going to north, I ended up going south. Whatever Iceland wants me to do... then I go to Hveragerði on the south coast. At least I still wanted to see the area around Þorlákshöfn as it looked so beautifull in the mists when I returned from Thorsmork in 2012. 

As I said it was quite windy today, I followed my way over Hellisheiði where the road crosses the Hengil volcano ridge. It can be spooky there when stormy, but before I could really cross this ridge, the road lead me away to Þorlákshöf. I dont know if it was a smart idea, here it was also spooky, and I was driving alone but saw no way back. I just continued, a car with horse trailer passed me so I thought it was ok to continue. It was a beautifull area, with what I call 'muffin lava' because the formed lava looked like freshly baked muffins with a ridge in their top. In Þorlákshöfn I did some shopping for lunch again. Because my guesthouse has a kitchen I could go for a warm dinner and bought some deep frozen thai food. And my beloved cheese sandwich. The town itself didnt have much to offer, it is situated on a flat land next to the ocean. Windy and well at this point not for me to stay longer. I continued my way along the coast line towards Grindavik. Here winds had free play and not far away I see the coast changing from flat to the fjord like mountains. From this distance it looked like the road was on sealevel, and that looked like my worst nightmare, with this winds driving on such mountainpass like road. I felt like I sealed my fate right here. I thought Hvalfjordur was a nightmare, but this seems to top it. But I survived Hvalfjordur. So on I go, and when I reach this doom road, it was by far not what I expected. Instead a cozy road through yet another lavafield nothing to worry about, but awe and amaze of how beautifull it is and how blessed I feel to be here. Wind or no wind. 

I pass by the road to Krysuvik, it was an F road which made me sad, this toy car cannot and should not take F roads. And even if I had a 4x4 I wouldnt do it. So I had to let go my wish to see Krysuvik and Seltún. Luckily this area has so much beauty to explore tomorrow. Not today because it is too windy to go out (flying stones!) and I proceed my way to Grindavik, Blue Lagoon. It is too late for the Viking museum, and put it on the maybe list for tomorrow. So I drive to Blue Lagoon, not to go bath, but to take pictures outside. They have a park with also the blue waters, ice cold here so no you cant go bath for free. But you dont see that on pictures. Sadly there was a wedding photo shoot going on, and I could not really get to the best spots :-(  Lucky for them, but not for me. 

And then it was almost 18.00 and time for me to go to the guesthouse to have something to eat. Maybe weather would be ok to see northern lights tonight, but clouds appeared. And like it has been all days, I didnt really feel like going out to hunt them. I hunted them here in my own place, moving from one room to another, because my room might be the most beautifull, but it had no good looking out windows to spot the lights. And the neighbours hot tub was widely used and had a huge bright light spoiling any chance to take try out pictures to see if the lights are active. 

I prepared for tomorrow, a feeling of sadness because I have to leave beautifull Iceland so soon. It was my longest stay so far, and it felt like I have been here for ages. But the creepy feeling this might be my last visit for a while makes my heart bleed. Still I will make this promise tomorrow. I always will until that day comes I dont have to leave again. 

Iceland 2014 Day 8 ~~~ Off to Reykjanes Peninsula! ~~~

Today it was my last day at Gauksmyri. After having breakfast with my friends here and having said farewell, it was time to move on, back to the southwest.

I was happy the weather was absolutely amazing. I first drove my bit to Stadarskali to fuel my car and then it would be endless driving in the remote areas of Iceland. The road through Holtavordurheidi was at some points slippery due to frozen patches of water. But not disturbing. Just have to take in mind that this part honors its name as highland, it is really at a high altitude here, though the area itself is completely flat. Not too much long driving later you drive into a canyon again, and it was such a delight to drive here all alone, and finally I got used to it to just stop if I want to take a picture. In the middle of the road if that matters (if you are of course sure there is no one coming ahead or behind you) to take a picture. But mainly I use the parkings which there are plenty en route. And Iceland is great with providing information at such places. So I got to see a part of Icelands oldest carriage roads, the Kattahryggur. A scary looking small road with a deep canyon, but oh so beautifull views. But no thanks, I would not drive it with a car. No way!

The weather was so great I drove a big part with my car window open, sniffing in the fresh air, and even walked outside in t-shirt. Who says Iceland is cold? Ok you got a point that I am a bit crazy ;-) but no one can take away this mighty experience to drive here with the window open. It was such a beautifull day!

On my way I also stopped again at Grábrok and made an attempt to climb to its crater rim. That obviously isnt a very exhausting thing to do, but you know me, I had lots more to see on my way that I had no chance for on the way to Akureyri due to weather (and less time as I needed to drive 400 km more). I really want to give it more time in a next visit. So I enjoyed the views from halfway, ate my skyr and moved on.

Mt Baula

Soon after leaving Bífrost I had to leave the ringroad 1 which increased with travelers with every bigger town you visit. After Bífrost it goes quite fast. You had no idea where all these cars suddenly come from, but I think the roads from the Westfjords also interjunct here somewhere.
I took another road towards Thingvellir, it was my idea, in case I had the time, to drive via Thingvellir to Reykjanes. But main reason was to visit Hraunfossar today.

It was a terrible long drive and since I didnt have navigation with me, I often doubted if I took the right way. I passed by Deildartunguhver and decided to visit there again. I was all alone here. Last time it rained and it was not so funny, but the colors are so epic if the steam goes the right direction. Deildartunguhver is a huge hotspring (hver = hotspring). It is a small rocky mountain in a merely plain valley, from which many hotsprings source, and also some hot waterfalls. Due to its nature, this rock pile is covered in varied types of moss, the rocks have all colors of the rock rainbow. This is Icelands biggest hotspring and produces hot water for Reykjavik, Snaeffellsness that is transported via huge pipelines and still cooking hot when it arrives in Iceland. Therefore you see along the ringroad small houses where the water probably is reheated or controled. Or maybe also tapped for local communities.

I continued my way and passed through Reykholt, where Snorri Sturlson wrote his eddas. I visited that also last year, and besides that it was closed. Later I heard some vandals ruined Snorralaug, the hot tub of Snorri on that day/evening. What a shamefull people exist....

I finally reached Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Again I was all alone, but expectedly, not for very long. Still it wasnt enough people to feel annoyed. In fact you only knew there were other people by the cars, but didnt see them on site. Its great to have time to yourself, and can leave when you want to. Hraunfossar looked beautifull in autumn colors. Now I also discovered the 'park' on the other side, which you sure wouldnt visit in winter. Stairs and roads made of stones, risk of slippery, but amazing views and the strange idea the water for Hraunfossar is streaming with huge force underneath you in lavatubes. Hraunfossar means Lavafalls, and it is a waterfall coming from lavarock. Underground water, there is no visible river feeding it. Well maybe in a distance but not here.

Hraunfossar

I still couldnt take a lot of photo's which I hate so much. I really need to get myself a good quality huge GB card soon. I already took 1000 photo's this week.

Horses on the slopes of Hvalfjordur

Seeing the time I had left to reach my guesthouse (it is a family house who likes to know when you arrive) I decided to not go to Thingvellir and opt that for one of the left days if I really wanted to. So I drove back to the ringroad, and to my sheer happiness I noticed I passed my threaded moment to take the bridge at Borgarness. Scared it would destroy my car even more. For next year I convince myself to take this much longer route again if weather is not friendly. But that idea got destroyed a bit later, when I found out that Borgarfjordur is known for the strongest windgusts in all of Iceland. Bye bye other option....

I thought of taking the short route that we took last year to Hvalfjordur. But I was not sure if it was a decent road to drive. It had 2 digits, and the exit from the current road looked good (no gravel) but that doesnt mean it is completely gravel free. Usualy its paved until the next farm or community and then gravel again. I took the ringroad and took the road over Hvalfjordur again, which was now beautifull and calm compared to the horror of one week ago.

I could not find Fossarétt and really wondered where the hell it was. I first passed another waterfall I wanted to picture on the way to Akureyri, but there the winds were sweeping up so much water, I didnt want to. But now I did. And this happened to be the way to Glymur. For a moment I was tempted. The weather was so good... But I got my happiness from this waterfall in the beginning. Hlymur will wait. Im sure of it. So off again, and not much later I finally found Fossarétt again.

Fossarétt last week Sunday. Even in the pooring rain worth a picture

Fossarétt and its sheepcoral it got its name from rétt = coral/sorting.

Upstream Fossarétt

Now I took my chance to walk up to this waterfall, and noticed this waterfall was much much more than just what you see from the road. it had 2 or 3 more waterfalls upstream, and Iceland experts say it is worth it to walk further upstream because there is more. Sure I believe that with these hills and mountains. But still no time. I have to be in time in Keflavik. Beautifull Fossarétt put on the to do list once more. Visiting Iceland is so much easier if you dont travel too much distance at once.

After Fossarétt I didnt visit any more places. Soon after you re enter the ringroad, it gets more and more crowdy, and I really had to get used to it to drive in Reykjavik again. I followed the route to Keflavik airport, and exactly 17.30 I found my guesthouse quite easily. They said it is difficult but somehow my iphone navigation worked (I thought it only works with internet connection).

I felt a bit rude when I just walked into the house of the owners. Forgetting they are a family renting out their own house for tourists. And there I was in a huge hall way thinking that was the guesthouse :-p But the people were so friendly. The room was downstairs and it was amazingly cozy. I was stunned to find a home like place, with a kitchen and 4 private rooms to it connected. I had a cozy room with a bed I would have loved to take home. Self service breakfast and a fridge full of skyr. Those friendly Icelanders trust in it you only use it for breakfast. Of course I did, but I could buy food and prepare it here for dinner, which is great. Iceland sells this great Swedish toko food, square boxes like a take away with Asian dishes for just 400 kronar (thats about 2.50). And delicious!

I was all alone at this place, and instantly felt at home. I stayed home that evening, still tired after this day full of impressions. Yep it takes time for me to reload it all. But it is such a great thing! Tomorrow new adventures wait. However it will be a calm day. The weather on Tuesday will be much better than tomorrow. So tomorrow I go find an SD card at Smaralind in Reykjavik, maybe visit Lífland the equestrian store, and then I go to Viking World. Maybe go to Blue Lagoon in the evening. Not to visit, just to take pictures maybe if Aurora Borealis is out to play.

Iceland 2014 Day 7 ~~ Sorting of the Horses ~~

Today it is the day of sorting the horses. After breakfast we quickly went to the sorting, we were with less in the bus this time as some people decided to go in their own ways to there. It can be a long haul and freezing cold to spend whole day there, and if you have been here year after year after year, it might get boring (not for me though!).

We were luckily in time again to see the horses arrive from the meadows, but the sun was not in favor to make a movie so nice as last year. But we cant have it all. When nearly all horses had passed, there was one paint foal who probaly lost its mother in the herd and wanted to join the horses in the field next to the sorting coral. He jumped the barbwire fence but got tangled in it. I must say the guards were really quickly to sort this situation out, but the Icelandic cool mentality let nature follow its own course. The foal got free and was chased back into its herd. The fence was damaged and we helped out to fix it, because as you see, there are horses in it, the good riding horses. In situations like this I am amazed by the calmth of the people involved, no stress no panic no stupidity. Just a steady plan to act. Amazing, Iceland has some really modest horsemanship. On the other hand, it is hard to find an adult horse not having scars on its legs due to barbwire accidents. If you traveled the country you know there is much more km on barbwire fences than roads. You see it everywhere to keep sheep and horses to a certain often huge area, to make rounding them up a bit easier. And also during the many relocations of herds of horses, riding them with your spare horses running loose, and flocks of sheep that need to go from A to B. So besides lots of regular roads, there are many cattle roads and riding tracks as well.

After the herd is settled into the 2 paddocks for the sorting, I went to bring my ridinghelmet and other things not yet needed to the sheepshed. I decided to take my srl camera with me as we wouldnt be crossing rivers and I dared to take the risk. I saw other people doing so as well. And my srl takes much more beautifull pictures than my pocket camera. I only had a problem that I didnt have much spare space anymore on my SD cards, so I couldnt be too wild taking pictures. So I only searched for odd colors, long manes and otherwise attractive shots. I have plenty of brown and black horse photo's at home now.

At lunch it was my first time ever to eat an Icelandic pylsar, hot dog. They say they are the best in the world. And despite my rejection for such sausages and sausages in general, I tried it and liked it. It even gave a ticket for the lottery to win a horse. :-) I also took money in case I wanted to buy a lopapeysa here as there are very cheap at this place. But the one I liked was just sold right in front of my face. One with nice autumn colors.

I did not win the horse, nor anything else. Sooner than last year, the sorting was finished and our herd was quickly ready to go. So we hurried back to get our horses. They wanted to have me Auma again. But since Crystelle got another horse, I asked for Thorri. Both Thorri and Auma didnt want to be caught, they sticked together in a field with no options to isolate them. It took almost half an hour before we finally got them, and I could quickly saddle Thorri as the rest was already waiting to go. We rode off to the sorting coral of Vididalstunga II the horses which we herd home every year. I noticed that Eva was riding Auma this time and had a hard time with her waiting for the herd to be ready. I was so happy I didnt change my mind, because at first I thought it was no problem to ride her again today, her energy pleased me and if we could just go go go it would sure not be a disaster. But looking at miss bouncy I felt good I took steady Thorri instead. He may be slower but relaxes me a bit more.

We rode off and we of course had to ride on the ringroad again with our herd. Which is always so amazing. Where in Europe can you ride with 100 horses on a 'high' way? In Iceland! But we had too less guards with us, or they did not spread well enough, as the herd decided to split and go to the Vididalstunga II farm, their home. And to make the mess complete, again a horse got tangled in the barbwire not carried away well enough and spread it over the road, so the whole herd ran over this flat barbwire fence. And really that is nervewrecking to watch because there isnt anything at all you can do than just watch a possible disaster evolve in front of your eyes. But luckily no horse got tangled or injured and in a quick moment a group of left behind horses could be lead away from it.

And then it was everybody for itself. wide open spaces, a horse track on the river bed and just go as you please. Thorri of course isnt the fastest, however I am sure he could, but I felt no need to exhaust myself by pushing him to go faster. Instead I enjoyed another moment of happiness when at a certain moment the herd disappeared behind a mountain and I had a hundred meter completely empty in front of me. In complete silence I just felt so incredible happy, everything so perfect and so blissfull to be here on a nice horse in such surroundings. My calling. I wish it lasted forever, but on top of the hill it was glorious to see the herd finding their way over the meadows to their winter pasture in the distance. Stable was calling. And a tear of sadness rolled down my face. It probably will take a whole year before I sit on or even touch a horse again... Why cant luck be on my side, why cant I find the job I want so badly, why cant I have 2 or more horses. Why is life so cruel on me, besides my happiness to be here. I hope I am wrong....

I say goodbye to Thorri, as he vanishes and when we drive off, I nowhere see a horse. I really have no idea where they went so quickly. They cant be far, because Eva and Steini will work hard tomorrow to take their shoes off before they really go to their winterpastures for their well deserved vacations. Happy horses :-)

Back at Gauksmyri we have the barbeque again. The food is good, but I so miss the kjótsupa, but luckily I took it at the Viking Hotel. Dont have to go without it! Tomorrow my journey back south begins, so I better start packing things and my car a bit. So much sadness to leave the horses behind. But looking forward to my last 3 days 'touristing' around in Reykjanes.

I did not plan to go to the round up ball. It was really not my thing, and someone else told me what I could agree to, it is an Icelandic thing and as foreigner, you are a foreigner there and will probably never understand it completely. No I wont.... and thats why I say I experienced it last year, and that is enough for me, for sure for now. 

Iceland 2014 Day 6 ~~The Horse Round Up ~~

The weather forcast is amazing for today. Amazing in a way that we will be visited by storm 3 of this week, but this one will contain snow and lots of wind. We were warned to take care of warm clothing and eventually arange spare clothes in case weather would get worse. I was already prepared for cold, since my not working heater even prevented me from hunting northern lights. I just didnt want to leave my warm bed, nor wanted to stroll outside and return to my iglo.

Thorris best friend, who found him back, overlooks the herd during our first bigger break.

After I had breakfast with Nicole, Shaun and Crystelle, we decided to go together to Hvammstangi, because of course I forgot the essential head wear which I barely use but are here a must have especially today. We went to the only supermarket in this area, actually far wide area because it serves all people living in a radius of 100 km around. Maybe a few gas stations will sell some groceries but this is the main one. Not even big, but sufficient. I got the last ear/head band, an Icelandic lady also wanting one, checked on the size I bought, sad for her.... but I probably need it more today, as I assume most Icelanders will have one or more at home anyway.
Of course I also returned with another batch of wool... my 2014 addiction haha!


On our way back to Gauksmyri we also visited the Wool Factory, as Crystelle hasnt been here yet. She was visiting here the way I did last year, by bus. And that means you only see Gauksmyri. So there we went and this time I got recognised by the lady and since I brought in some friends, she gave us a tour through the factory. Which was nice to see. But of course I dont really care for the manufactured stuff. I mean, it is nice it can all be made this way, but to me a wool sweater should be hand made, with all its errors and oddities coming along. A lopapeysa (woolsweater) cannot be made with a machine anyway. The machines only make the Norwegian type of sweaters, which are Icelandic of course but for me are not at the authentic things I look for.

Woolfactory. I had this horse pattern as a blanket in my room, and also as over curtains.

Piles of wool. Here they dont thrive on strict logistics, just drop it here to be found back when need to use.

After our tour there, we returned to Gauksmyri for lunch. Of course it was delicious as ever. And with our traditional pocket sandwich we prepared to go for the round up. The herd might arrive late due to the weather circumstances. But I guess we were in luck today. It was more or less the same weather as last year, but the wind was less cold, and nature around us was white dusted.

It was all a bit different than last year when we had to wait for the herd to arrive and then quickly saddle our horses. This year the herd was perfectly in time. Eva one of our guides was in this herd (lucky her) and came greet us in a hurry. They took a long break. Today I got a new horse named Auma. A chestnut mare with a blaze. I am really not that fancy with an all new horse in this circumstances, but I trust them to match a right horse to me. Both Thorri and Leirljós were taken, Thorri was given to Crystelle and Leirljós to one of the Icelandic girls who come here every year.
But Auma seems like a nice horse to me. Friendly and all.

Me and Auma, I think this was at our first break

The sheepcoral powdered with some snow. I didnt even notice when I was there ;-)

The herd is arriving and our horses are curious to it too!

Leirljós was very curious to me and came to greet me, but soon the grass was more interesting.

I wanted to picture this chestnut horse, because it had a darkbrown blaze. But it didnt want to lift its head high enough

Leirljos ready for someone else.

You cannot go riding without essentials to keep you warm. Beer and whiskey. No it likely is not water in the left pocket!

After a little while we could finally mount our horses, it is so cold to wait on the ground! I noticed Auma was a total different horse than the others I rode so far, much more energy and I really felt her will to go. I was really unsure on the lava fields, Auma just wants to go, but I didnt really trust her to give full reins as she was throwing up her head so terribly, she few times almost hit my face. Not long before I ended up somewhere in the back because I did not feel okay with her in this circumstances. Soon Mausy (I dont know his Icelandic name, as I never heard that one before) forced me and Shaun to speed up, because the herd already caught up with us, and we should have crossed the river before them or else it might be a swimming matter.
So hesistantly I gave her more reins, and it went better but the trust, it was not okay for me, and I sure will opt different next year. Auma is by all means not a horse I dont like, in fact, I do like her spirit because she is so much forward. You dont need to work a lot on her. I just needed a little more time to get to know her. Then we had to cross the river Kolá. It was deeper than last year due to the rains we had last week. All went fine and I magically kept my feet dry. One person had fell off, but I didnt notice. On the photo's I came across after I returned back home, it was amazing to see myself wading there sided by the free roaming horses. I wish I could have this photo for myself. But I dont know how I could contact the owner. I cannot put it up here, as Picasa will add my copyright to it, which I dont want because it is not true. So sorry, you should ask me for this photo if you want to see it.

After 30 minutes we left this lava field, and it was good to know the rest of our ride would be on roads. And that went better. Our first break we even went to the little house to get some coffee and kleinur (Icelandic donuts). When not waiting on Auma mounted, everything is ok. But my energetic horse got really her engine going. It was a delight to have a horse who did not feel like it could drop dead any moment. But after the big bridge we had to wait some time for the other herd to arrive. As we heard later, they had terrible snow storms delaying their round up. We barely had snow so far.
So there we waited a long time. I decided to not dismount Auma, expecting the herd to arrive quickly. But Auma didnt want to wait, she got so nervous, so I dismounted, but I notice my muscles started to get stiff. I am of course not a regular rider and this was really getting a problem. 

At the coffee hut to get coffee and a kleinur (Icelandic donut)

Snow in Aumas manes

Im not sure, but I think these are yesterdays photo's.... in Hvammstangi

Soon our herd was already moving forward, as their overnight meadow wasn't far away. And we had an option to go with this herd already. I did not manage to be in time, but since I finally got on Auma, I decided to walk around a bit, but it was no option either, she only wanted to go to the known direction of the round up. Horses can be just as excited as the people here :-)
Finally the other herd arrived and we could go on. Auma was happy :-) Me too because it started to snow HUGE snow flakes, and we had a small snow storm in which we had to rely on our horses as we barely couldnt keep our eyes snow free. It lasted only a few minutes and then we had another stop. I decided to wait for the others but Auma was so terrible now, she reared up, jumped, threw her head and didnt want to stand still for even a second. So I decided to go on, and took the right way instead of the road. On our way the horses go to the meadows, and as soon as the herd was diverted to the meadows, there were moments me and Auma were merely riding alone. I tried to take it easy, waiting for the others, but in the end I decided it was better to just go to the sorting coral and see what would happen there. I had no clue where our horses would stay overnight.


I simply enjoyed the feeling of riding alone here in Iceland, how amazing that must be having your own horse and feel on top of the world. Auma was of course with only one thing on her mind, and you barely cant control your horse here. So just like Vinur last year, I let her go... and I have the idea Auma is a five gaiter. I never rode the skeid (pace) but I think this either was a very pacy very fast tolt or a straight pace, with that odd feeling you are running on a horse (left right left right motion).

At the sorting coral I decided to not dismount her, but her energy didnt left her, wat a nervewreck! Luckily we didnt have to wait long, and all we had to do was going to the sheepshed next to the coral. I could even walk her if I would. And you can imagine I was quite happy I could finally dismount her for today. Like I say it is not at all a bad horse, but for me a bit too nervous, it could be a lethal combination. I can deal pretty well with such horses and in most cases I like this will to please kind of nerves. But if I ride more horses and not really for leisure. It was a good thing though she had such incredible stamina. The first horse that didnt almost fall dead. And no feeling of guilt toward the horse this time. You know I am not really a person who likes it to force a horse to work hard, I'd be better off with an Auma like horse than one that will take advantage of this.

Our horses 'stored' in their meadow next to the horse sorting coral (also used to sort sheep by the way)

When the horses were all in the field and our tack was stored in the sheepbarn (with inside one ewe with a late season lamb (sooooo cute!) we returned to Gauksmyri. It was big fun in the bus, Hrund daughter of the owner of Gauksmyri always knows how to raise the spirit during this trips. So for every nationality there had to be sung a song. For some countries it was quite a challenge, she didnt even mention Netherlands thank goodness because I am not at all a singer. Hehe. But it could be worse when they came up with bieber for Canada. Ohhhh noooo.... luckily they changed to Celine Dion, lets get better. They didnt opt for Brian Adams.
The fun made the ride a quick one, and so we returned to Gauksmyri to finally get rid of our muddy and for some wet riding clothes. Not everybody kept his/her legs dry during the cross of the river. A nice hot shower and waiting downstairs for dinner. And I hoped and counted for the delicious Kjötsupa. But instead we had the delicious goulash, of which Crystelle 'proudly' told me after dinner it was made with horse meat.... Last year it was cow, I asked that especially. So I was a bit sad, but the knowledge the horses here had the best lives a horse can have and Icelanders care extremely well for their animals I could not really feel guilt, just sadness. But if I knew it was horsemeat, I wouldnt have eaten it. Simply because I cannot eat it fully aware. I only eat lambmeat in Iceland for same reason. There doesnt exist cruelfree, animalfriendly or humane kept meat. Its true... But Iceland is one of the few countries were they produce meat in a way it should be (personally I dont want any animal to die for our so called wellbeing, but its hypocrite to think why predators can eat animals, and humans not while they have done for ages, so I simply dont cling to the vegan slogan that it is healthier to be vegan. In this age it might be, but solely because the way we get to find the meat on our plates is completely wrong. But not going to discuss that here). And in Iceland and especially here in the middle of nowhere you have a hard time being vegetarian. However the store in Hvammstangi had a full 2 meter store shelve full of powerfoods and possible substitute materials (quinoa, amarant, beans, chia, seaweed etc.). But I cant cook in Gauksmyri ;-)

And after dinner it was time to close the day and prepare for tomorrow, when the horses are being sorted out and taken to their homes. Since it still was so cold in my room, I just popped into bed, hoping for a glimpse of northern lights, but clouds.... that wont disappear before very early in the morning. Too early as I woke up only to see the sun rising. There is not really the spirit to search for the lights here this visit....

Iceland 2014 Day 5 Bringing the horses from Hvammstangi to the sheepcoral

THIS BLOG WILL BE UPDATED LATER WITH PHOTOS!!

Finally it was a day to ride horses again. It has been so long, and I was very curious to what all my riding with Katla has lead to. This extra day we were going to pick up our ridinghorses at a stable in Hvammstangi, bring them to Gauksmýri where we have lunch and, on a fresh horse, bring the horses to the sheepcoral where we start on the day of the round up tomorrow.

First we were droven to Hvammstangi, to a horse farm. Many horses were outside in paddocks but our ridinghorses were inside the stable awaiting us. I got a horse named þorri, a what they in Germany would call a black horse. Is it black? No... Its that very dark brown type of Icelandic horse with the faded manes, I have no clue what the color is called, not even in Dutch. Þorri was in a box together with his best friend with the same colors and looks, little less manes. When we all had our horses sorted out, we started to saddle them and after we briefly hopped on (without help hurray) to check the saddle, stirrups and temperment, took them out. After a bit of waiting the five of us went out before the herd was released so we had some time to close fences or block roads to farms or traffic roads. The weather was quite mild for us. A strong gale, but no rain so far.

Þorri was a nice horse to ride, however he sometimes had his own ideas about crossing muddy tracks.He tölted well, but needed a little force in it to not let him be a bit lazy.
We reached Gauksmýri after one and a half hour riding. We put our riding horses separate in a paddock so they could rest here this night, and would be taken by trailer to the round up the next day. After we had a good warm lunch, we were ready for the second part. Unfortunately it had started to rain. But for some reason, it doesnt really bother if you are riding. I got a very light almost white palomino with the name Leirljós. Yup like my friend in Germany. Leirljós is the Icelandic word for palomino. It might not be his real name, because they called him another name, I thought Draumur later.
In the beginning he was stumbling a lot. I almost fell off him a few times. He is what we say 'heavy on forehand' has too much balance forward. It took time to notice that, but it made him stumble less to ride him more from his back hand. Leirljós has a galop from heaven. As smooth as tölting, you feel it is gallop, but you barely move. Really amazing, a dreamflight, as if his feet never touched the ground and if his name is indeed Draumur, he is a dream yes. He used to be a competition horse.

At one point we have to cross the ringroad by a tunnel which is a narrow pipe in which we as riders have to bend foreward. All horses were used to it, except one. We five and a few horses of the herd already passed, and soon others of the herd followed. But the back riders making sure the horses stay before them, did not come out. We waited like 20 minutes and then we saw a loose horse returning to Gauksmýri. This one horse is known as stubborn, because he is young and stayed stallion quite long so is not very socialised in herd living and now decided he didnt want to go into this dark hole. Not even following all the others. But soon enough help came and with 5 horse and riders he had no other choice than to go. Sometimes there are the more complicated horses.
Not much later we had another problem. We had to pass through a section were horses roam free, and this whole herd came to greet us. Nice to see but not practical, so one of our guides herded this group away so we could pass without this herd joining us. This herd usualy blends in with the round up, taking a shorter way than us over the lava. Maybe we will catch up with them tomorrow.

Not much later we arrived at destination. We put all the horses out in the meadow.
The rain had stopped and the wind had blowdry my clothes more or less. But all I wanted was a nice hot shower to warm up before dinner started.

Back at Gauksmyri we saw how 'dirty' we had become, the muddy tracks really painted or riding boots and lower leggs totally muddy. I washed my riding pants off in the bathroom, they dont like me to do this but really I dont want to walk around like this muddy. I left no traces behind and the heater in my bathroom did work to dry all my stuff. Last thing I want is to be wet tomorrow. Because with wet clothes you wont be able to keep warm.

For dinner we had this oh so delicious Gauksmyri food, roasted chicken and pork with mushroomsauce. And lots of vegetables. Something you dont see very often in Iceland. Because vegetables are so expensive here. Luckily many people try and succeed with their own greenhouses to grow lots of veggies. And many will do without a greenhouse too. Someone just has to dare taking the challenge. ;-)

Iceland 2014 Day 4 ~~~ To Gauksmýri ~~~

THIS BLOG WILL BE UPDATED LATER WITH PHOTOS!!

And today I leave Akureyri without ever visiting the city itself, to go back to Gaukmýri. It is not a very long ride and weather is looking great.

I enjoy my ride in Oxnardalur much more now, watching the many horses still waitng to be rounded up this weekend. It is a lovely sight of freedom to see them wander around freely, crossing or wading rivers or graze at the foot of the steep mountain slopes in this valley. Also plenty of sheep.

I stopped now at a waterfall named Gíl. Or at least I think its its name as the roadsign pointed to it and nothing else was there. Its completely different than the circumstances I had on Monday. And the roads were nice and quiet.

Of course this ride didnt take long compared to Mondays ride. Gauksmýri is exactly halfway Reykjavik & Akureyri. On my way I wanted to visit Hvitserkur and Kolarfoss. But both were gravel road access only. I didnt want to risk any more gravel damage to my car, so both also made it back to my to do list. What I dd pass was Þristapar. I was highly impressed with the book 'burial rights' by Hannah Kent which seems to be released in Icelandic recently. Its about Icelands last execution snd the whole story took place in the wide area around Gauksmýri. And þristapar had the 'honr' to be the place of the execution of Agnes. Since this story comes to life to me at this place, I stopped here, but didnt walk to the executionsite and the former grave of the two executed people. Im not too fond on that. But I do found it amazing that a clear bright full rainbow appeared arched over this site now grazed by sheep and horses.

I moved on and reached Gauksmýri few minutes later. It was early, I decided to check out Hvammstangi first. A supermarket and the wool factory. I talked to the very friendly lady there about making my own lopapeysa. They mainly produce machine made wool items and just a few lopapeysas and buns of wool, she directed me to the supermarket and a store sellng all kinds f handcaft things. Once I found that place, i found a rather huge Icelandic woman who did not speak a word English, or just one word. Sort off... She replied with ohoh yes on every question, while chewing gum openmouthed. What a store... I bought a few color léttlopi wool as the supermarket only sells traditional brown, black, white and grey.

Then I wanted to visit the seal center. But I had the luck it was closed for winterseason from 1st of October. Which was today. What a pitty. So I sniffed up some fresh seabreeze there instead.
It was time to go to Gauksmýri to check in there. Nothing else left to do so far.

At Gauksmýri I got another room than last year. One with a heater that didnt work. Very nice because the nights here are cold. Really cold and snow and ice are never far away... Luckily I wont spend too much time there.
At dinnertime I met my 3 companions for this years round up. I wondered where all the others are. Probably not interested in the extra day Gauksmýri added to the programm. But Im glad this year I have some other people to hang out with a bit, just like last year. Because Ishestar is also saying here, we all join in the bbq dinner. I really hope there will be the Icelandic meat soup some day too. The food is so good here. Im normal vegetarian but n Iceland it is difficult to maintain if you do not want to take extra pills with you. In Reykjavik they sell food to compensate, but in isolated towns like this, the only substitute is raw slaw and little fruit. I can not live here on a poor protein diet. Besides all this, Iceland has a better sense for livestock management. The main sources of sheep and horses are kept in freedom most of the year. I still would not eat horsemeat though, but it is tricky because it is so common meatsource here, you know it is in anything that is made of ground meat, like we would
do with beef. I can only comfort myself with the knowledge the animals live a healthy good life, compared to mainland Europe. . 

During the night there was probably a good northern light show. The times I checked I caught nothing. But I saw photos on internet showing beautifull auroras. Somehow my mind was not set to aurora hunting. I just was solid frozen in my bed and it made no sense to go outside if I would never defrost again. I better snuggled up under my blanket and wool blanket. Tomorrow I would finally go ride horses again, and see what I learned at Hestagard. I hope I will get on the horses all by myself. That would be victory!