It is my last day. In advance I have yet no idea what I will be doing this Sunday morning. Depending on the weather, I might go out for a walk to a 'forest' nearby. Don't know...
By the time you will be able to read this, I have left Iceland. But sure I will return. Even if in the worst case it has rained 4 days... if I haven't seen the auroras... I know I have seen too much other wonderfull, amazing things. This country breaths magic. If only I could spend a longer period of time here.... Sigh...
So, around 18.30 Dutch time, I take off again, ripped out of this living dream. I will be back 'home' about 23.00 (may be one hour earlier). I can't call it home. For a long long time I don't know where my home is. Where my heart is, that is a common saying I live by. But I lost it somewhere. And I hope after this short break, I can be clear if it is Finland or Iceland, or both... The feeling of wanting to live here in Iceland, even temporary, is keeping a hold on me. Wishing it wasn't so darn hard to come here with cats. Because no... there is no choice between anything and the cats. If they can't go, I will wait. Even if they turn over 25 years old....
zondag 23 september 2012
zaterdag 22 september 2012
Day 4 Horses, stunning nature and more rainbows!
Today it looked like it was going to be a partly clouded day. Typical Icelandic weather but not as bad as yesterday. I have spend hours drying my clothes, my shoes and bag. Despite of wearing waterproof protections, everything got REALLY wet. But the hairdryer was not agreeing with my attempts and got overheated all the time. So, I put some plastic bags around my feet and used the still soaking all weather boots. And took some pair of dry socks with me, to change after riding.
Breakfast was again excelent, the pancakes were there again, but today I discovered the nuts. Fresh natural pure nuts.... pecans! So grounded pecans on the pancakes, pecans from hand and stuffed some pecans in my pockets. I love it!
Then I had to take the bus to the GrayLine terminal. I was picked up by GrayLine at the hotel of course, but the main departure takes place there at the center of Reykjavik. I spoke with a Norwegian girl who also takes the same trip.
Not long after the transfer from Laxnes Horsefarm arrived. A nice welcoming horsey smell came along. The bus was full, but we of course had to wait again for some Chinese. It is always the Chinese who are too late. It appeared to me that I was the only one who could ride. So I had this slight feeling of getting on a boring slow ride.
When we arrived at the stable lots of horseys were awaiting us. Some already saddled, some not. Probably those were the very kind horses. I noticed the Icelandic Horse here has an incredible diversity, not the type I know back home. Maybe because they are starting to get wooly? But there was also a very tiny (even for Icelandic terms) horse, maybe just a bit taller than 1 meter. Special for children. And a huge male one looking like a draughthorse, and I doubt this one still fitted the measurement of a pony. To me all Icelandic Horses are Horses, dont get me wrong.
After putting ourselfs into bright orange rainsuits, boots, gloves and helmets, we were choosen a horse. When I said I had over 20 years riding experience, the owner disappeared into the herd. Looking for a FFF horse (Fierce, Feisty & Fast, but to me make it Fierce, Funny and Fast). And he returned with Stjörnu, named after the star on his head. It was the family horse and has a very special place in this horsefarm. Not used a lot during the tours. So I got a more delicate horse. YAY!
Finaly after a loooong time preparing, and me trying to tell people not to pull the reins all the time (sigh... guides should say to pull the reins when nothing works, people now in all their fear when they move start to pull, which is such a horrific sight. Some horses walked backwards all the time, and believe me getting a horse walking backwards is not easy) we could leave.
I started in the back of the group, but they told me Stjörnu loves to be in front. He was not fighting his way there, but because of the stumbling of the other people I decided to put him into a tolt already to get passed this group. And the rest of the time, I remained in the front, mostly behind our guide. At least this way I got to tolt and ride. Which was wonderfull. Meandering along a glacial river we had to cross few times, giving Stjörnu space to find his own way through the rocks. Then we went up on a hill which I assume is either a piece of land shifted up by earthquakes or a volcanic rift. All the way on top we had a magnificent view towards Reykjavik and the ocean. It didnt rain more than a drizzle so view was acceptable clear. Later on the rainbow that accompanies me ever since I was on the plane to Iceland, appeared very bright. I could not take pictures during the ride, no hands free to clean the rain etc. So I have not much pictures. Only those made during our little break, to have the horses graze.
We rode back in the same way we came from. But this way there appeared more 'problems', many horses behind and one horse became very stubborn, didn't want to cross the rivers etc. I think this was a wrong match rider/horse, it was looking so confused to me. And the rider was also one that continiously is pulling the reins. Maybe the horse didn't accept that anymore and fought his way back. The guy was having a hard time. For me it was also hard, because Stjörnu smelled the stable and started to speed up ever closer we got to 'home'. In the end he was sort of unstopable, but I noticed the guide had the same problem, we just tolted our way back to the stable. Stjörnu also cantered a few steps and for what I felt wanted to go in pace, but couldn't find stability to do so. He was not at all uncontrolable by the way, he just was taking over the lead, gently but fast getting home. I could stop if I want, I could turn if needed. Could do anything. I just know you should never doubt the way of the Icelandic Horse, if they want something; find compromise or let them go. You wont win it. And as long as it appeared safe (he stayed behind the guide and was controlable) I hurried along to the stable.
Looking backwards I saw horses doing the same thing, running home with their 'luggage' and the followup guide cantering behind to assist with the naughty brown horse. Naughty wrong word, but you get the point. Horseriding is not easy, it can be frustrating too. Personally I don't think it is right thing to do this trips if people have not had the least instructions about riding. At least you would if you care for your horses. Which by all means is not to say those people don't care for the horses. But I have seen some things that break my heart, but that is because I connect differently with horses. I saw overweight people trotting, while this breed has a unique gait that could spare his back. Now I saw the poor horse lowering his back with every stride, too much weight bumping as the girl wasn't one with the movement too. I know overweight people who ride horses without harming their backs. And I know slim people who do.
Enough horse talk here ;-) Our ride was over, and after a lunchbreak the horrific big GreyLine bus appeared. I hoped we had a small group to go see the Golden Circle. But no... we were crammed into this bus, I had no windowseat and that is shear torture to me because I thrive on it to absorb the world around me. In this case a small group of Spanish who continiously talked and translated, so I couldnt hear the accented guide talking. And this tour would consist of mainly busrides (about 4 out of 5 1/2 hour). I had the time of my life... not really.
The weather has become better. Very good. Our first bus stop was very close at Thingvellir National Park. I was expected to have some time here to do some hiking. That is what the tour promised. But instead we had 15 minutes to see the fissure.
So ok... we got off, and honestly this area is amazing. How beautifull Iceland is in Autumn! All those colors. And I could only feel sorry I had no time at all. To look, to listen, to feel. Only time to rush to the fissure, run like crazy take photo's and return in time to the bus. Honestly I will never ever again do a Golden Circle tour. Never. Next time I go alone or with very small group.
During the next busride to Gullfoss (1 hour) I could restore some thing. The feeling after seeing this place Thingvellir. The awesomeness, the true power of nature. What unbelievable forces the Earth has to rip apart land, to let continents drift apart, and push up whole mountains. The idea that one day Iceland will break into two. I doubt it we will ever experience that, before it happens somewhereelse the world has to collide. Or maybe Earth is gone completely. At least I do understand this power now. If the Earth can create this, it can destroy too. But again, this rough nature of Iceland at the same time shows tenderness. The flowers that grow, the waters that flow. It is so balanced here. This will keep my mind busy for a long time. If you experience Iceland you can only feel mesmorised of how beautifull our planet is.
On our way to Gullfoss we pass the Geysir site seeing the Earth damping wherever you look.
At Gullfoss we have 45 minutes to see the falls. But that is because we have to walk a little bit and go down into the canyon to see them. Unfortunately the wind is messing up, it is blowing towards the viewing plateau, and therefor the fog is hazing any picture you take. We can't have it all. But the fog also generates rainbows :-) Yes there it is again! I move up to the highest plateau, and there for first time I was all alone. Just me and the roaring falls behind me. Then two birds approach me, one is ahead. It is a raven. I am too late to take a proper picture of her. She flies on and vanishes in the distance. Not much later the second raven came flying towards me. I thought my camera was filming but it was not. Again an unclear picture. This raven suddenly decides to fly a circle overhead of me. Then he gives a raven call and continues to follow the other one. This one felt so gifted to experience. Never saw a wild raven before, and now I have seen 3. The lack of wildlife is sure a disadvantage of Iceland. There are LOTS of birds, but most have now headed to mainland Europe or even further down for winter. As soon as this raven left via the canyon, another rainbow appeared. Just there in the fog of Gullfoss. Moments like this are timeless in this extrordinairy country. My heart cries out to explore it more, much more than this. But in another way.
I have to climb up to buy something to eat for the night, just in case the northern light excursion goes on. In the store I decided to buy a salmon bagel for once. Though the food is of high quality, a lot is non vegan. And however I do eat meat once in a while, it does not include lamb. Which is about 75% of the available meat here. So after getting this sandwich bought, it was time to go to Geysir.
At this geothermic park, there are over 50 geysirs, hot springs, mudsprings, fumerols and other geothermal sites. The most famous is Geysir of course. And Strokkur who faithfully erupts every 4-6 minutes.
Since we only had 15 minutes here (what a shame!) I devoted my time to get a capture of the blue bell of Strokkur. This is the moment when the hot water is coming out of the geysir. A huge blue ball of water bursting into steam. I witnessed 2 rounds, before deciding to quickly run towards the other sites. I could not find time to see them all, or find out about their names. I wanted to see Geysir, but it appeared to me that Geysir was situated further on on a mountain, seeing lots of people standing there. I would have no time to do so... since we had to go to another place for the bus. I hated this, I wanted to see Geysir even if it would not erupt.
This site also is heaven for photographer, so again I got disappointed about this way, being used like cattle or a bunch of Japanese on a one week world tour. You wont want to know how many sites I have seen that I would have loved to force the busdriver to stop for pictures. So unfair. I have no picture of horses in full nature (with a volcano or hill as background), or the sheep in the middle of the autumn colors. Or the autumn colors itself, waterfalls that are beautiful but rarely visited. And now I didnt even glimpse Geysir. Now, when I write this I am with more wisdom, and know that I have seen AND captured Geysir. Honestly I am sure no one payed attention to him. It was the first one we came across, but me included we all walked straight towards Strokkur.
One day I will come back... and pay more attention to Geysir.
The tour ended by driving back via the southwest of Iceland. I saw Hekla and we drove past Ejafjallajokul hiding in the mists. We drove via the southwest to show another part of geothermal activity. Actually 2. First we went to a town which is build on such geothermal field. In the middle of the town there are fumerols and geysirs. Sometimes a house disappears when new fumerols develop. Dangerous to live, but Icelanders use it wisely. In this area there are lots of green houses where they use this thermal heat and energy to grow everything, from tomatos to roses, and melons to bananas. And a lot of flowers too. Iceland is getting less and less depend on other countries for food. But what is the price they will pay for it one day? After all they live on a volcano.
Not far away from this town, is the thermal energy station for Reykjavik, and the largest in the world. Here they use the geo thermal heat to heat water, to generate steam and to have this water transported to Reykjavik where it first warms the streets of Reykjavik, to keep them icefree. After this journey it is still hot enough to be used as hot water. Believe me, hot water from the tap is really hot, and cold water is really cold. It comes straight from either volcanos or glaciers. All they do is apply a filter to filter out large particals. The rest is unnecessary. The waters are so clean in Iceland, you can drink from the glaciers, or well. Providing you are sure it is not toxic volcanic water.
So Iceland has sufficient and clean water, energy and heating. Our guide told us she pays 1500 euro a year for water, electricity, heating, taxes and disposal. Maybe it is cheap, I dont know. But I pay less... but I don't use a lot. I am not average. You know, I walk without a jacket in Reykjavik in September...
Early in the evening we arrive back in Reykjavik. With the announcement that the northern light tour is cancelled for the third time. There was no chance for auroral activity either. It didn't matter. I could pack my suitcase and prepare for the day I leave. Tears drop down. What is my mission in my home country? Is it so cruel I have to go back to this place where I feel so miserable... Tomorrow I go back to my old ways, old routines, to news I don't want to hear, to pay bills I have no money for, to places where I am not being taken serious. To a country that is destroying itself to a third world country. I have to get away... but for Iceland I wait a moment until Katla has been woken up. I have to because if I want to take the cats, it can take up to 9 months before they are ready to leave. If I manage to take them with me. I have to see what problem causes Grey to cough up all the time.
Breakfast was again excelent, the pancakes were there again, but today I discovered the nuts. Fresh natural pure nuts.... pecans! So grounded pecans on the pancakes, pecans from hand and stuffed some pecans in my pockets. I love it!
Then I had to take the bus to the GrayLine terminal. I was picked up by GrayLine at the hotel of course, but the main departure takes place there at the center of Reykjavik. I spoke with a Norwegian girl who also takes the same trip.
Not long after the transfer from Laxnes Horsefarm arrived. A nice welcoming horsey smell came along. The bus was full, but we of course had to wait again for some Chinese. It is always the Chinese who are too late. It appeared to me that I was the only one who could ride. So I had this slight feeling of getting on a boring slow ride.
When we arrived at the stable lots of horseys were awaiting us. Some already saddled, some not. Probably those were the very kind horses. I noticed the Icelandic Horse here has an incredible diversity, not the type I know back home. Maybe because they are starting to get wooly? But there was also a very tiny (even for Icelandic terms) horse, maybe just a bit taller than 1 meter. Special for children. And a huge male one looking like a draughthorse, and I doubt this one still fitted the measurement of a pony. To me all Icelandic Horses are Horses, dont get me wrong.
After putting ourselfs into bright orange rainsuits, boots, gloves and helmets, we were choosen a horse. When I said I had over 20 years riding experience, the owner disappeared into the herd. Looking for a FFF horse (Fierce, Feisty & Fast, but to me make it Fierce, Funny and Fast). And he returned with Stjörnu, named after the star on his head. It was the family horse and has a very special place in this horsefarm. Not used a lot during the tours. So I got a more delicate horse. YAY!
 |
| My horse Stjornu |
Finaly after a loooong time preparing, and me trying to tell people not to pull the reins all the time (sigh... guides should say to pull the reins when nothing works, people now in all their fear when they move start to pull, which is such a horrific sight. Some horses walked backwards all the time, and believe me getting a horse walking backwards is not easy) we could leave.
I started in the back of the group, but they told me Stjörnu loves to be in front. He was not fighting his way there, but because of the stumbling of the other people I decided to put him into a tolt already to get passed this group. And the rest of the time, I remained in the front, mostly behind our guide. At least this way I got to tolt and ride. Which was wonderfull. Meandering along a glacial river we had to cross few times, giving Stjörnu space to find his own way through the rocks. Then we went up on a hill which I assume is either a piece of land shifted up by earthquakes or a volcanic rift. All the way on top we had a magnificent view towards Reykjavik and the ocean. It didnt rain more than a drizzle so view was acceptable clear. Later on the rainbow that accompanies me ever since I was on the plane to Iceland, appeared very bright. I could not take pictures during the ride, no hands free to clean the rain etc. So I have not much pictures. Only those made during our little break, to have the horses graze.
 |
| A break for the horses to graze |
We rode back in the same way we came from. But this way there appeared more 'problems', many horses behind and one horse became very stubborn, didn't want to cross the rivers etc. I think this was a wrong match rider/horse, it was looking so confused to me. And the rider was also one that continiously is pulling the reins. Maybe the horse didn't accept that anymore and fought his way back. The guy was having a hard time. For me it was also hard, because Stjörnu smelled the stable and started to speed up ever closer we got to 'home'. In the end he was sort of unstopable, but I noticed the guide had the same problem, we just tolted our way back to the stable. Stjörnu also cantered a few steps and for what I felt wanted to go in pace, but couldn't find stability to do so. He was not at all uncontrolable by the way, he just was taking over the lead, gently but fast getting home. I could stop if I want, I could turn if needed. Could do anything. I just know you should never doubt the way of the Icelandic Horse, if they want something; find compromise or let them go. You wont win it. And as long as it appeared safe (he stayed behind the guide and was controlable) I hurried along to the stable.
Looking backwards I saw horses doing the same thing, running home with their 'luggage' and the followup guide cantering behind to assist with the naughty brown horse. Naughty wrong word, but you get the point. Horseriding is not easy, it can be frustrating too. Personally I don't think it is right thing to do this trips if people have not had the least instructions about riding. At least you would if you care for your horses. Which by all means is not to say those people don't care for the horses. But I have seen some things that break my heart, but that is because I connect differently with horses. I saw overweight people trotting, while this breed has a unique gait that could spare his back. Now I saw the poor horse lowering his back with every stride, too much weight bumping as the girl wasn't one with the movement too. I know overweight people who ride horses without harming their backs. And I know slim people who do.
Enough horse talk here ;-) Our ride was over, and after a lunchbreak the horrific big GreyLine bus appeared. I hoped we had a small group to go see the Golden Circle. But no... we were crammed into this bus, I had no windowseat and that is shear torture to me because I thrive on it to absorb the world around me. In this case a small group of Spanish who continiously talked and translated, so I couldnt hear the accented guide talking. And this tour would consist of mainly busrides (about 4 out of 5 1/2 hour). I had the time of my life... not really.
The weather has become better. Very good. Our first bus stop was very close at Thingvellir National Park. I was expected to have some time here to do some hiking. That is what the tour promised. But instead we had 15 minutes to see the fissure.
So ok... we got off, and honestly this area is amazing. How beautifull Iceland is in Autumn! All those colors. And I could only feel sorry I had no time at all. To look, to listen, to feel. Only time to rush to the fissure, run like crazy take photo's and return in time to the bus. Honestly I will never ever again do a Golden Circle tour. Never. Next time I go alone or with very small group.
During the next busride to Gullfoss (1 hour) I could restore some thing. The feeling after seeing this place Thingvellir. The awesomeness, the true power of nature. What unbelievable forces the Earth has to rip apart land, to let continents drift apart, and push up whole mountains. The idea that one day Iceland will break into two. I doubt it we will ever experience that, before it happens somewhereelse the world has to collide. Or maybe Earth is gone completely. At least I do understand this power now. If the Earth can create this, it can destroy too. But again, this rough nature of Iceland at the same time shows tenderness. The flowers that grow, the waters that flow. It is so balanced here. This will keep my mind busy for a long time. If you experience Iceland you can only feel mesmorised of how beautifull our planet is.
On our way to Gullfoss we pass the Geysir site seeing the Earth damping wherever you look.
At Gullfoss we have 45 minutes to see the falls. But that is because we have to walk a little bit and go down into the canyon to see them. Unfortunately the wind is messing up, it is blowing towards the viewing plateau, and therefor the fog is hazing any picture you take. We can't have it all. But the fog also generates rainbows :-) Yes there it is again! I move up to the highest plateau, and there for first time I was all alone. Just me and the roaring falls behind me. Then two birds approach me, one is ahead. It is a raven. I am too late to take a proper picture of her. She flies on and vanishes in the distance. Not much later the second raven came flying towards me. I thought my camera was filming but it was not. Again an unclear picture. This raven suddenly decides to fly a circle overhead of me. Then he gives a raven call and continues to follow the other one. This one felt so gifted to experience. Never saw a wild raven before, and now I have seen 3. The lack of wildlife is sure a disadvantage of Iceland. There are LOTS of birds, but most have now headed to mainland Europe or even further down for winter. As soon as this raven left via the canyon, another rainbow appeared. Just there in the fog of Gullfoss. Moments like this are timeless in this extrordinairy country. My heart cries out to explore it more, much more than this. But in another way.
I have to climb up to buy something to eat for the night, just in case the northern light excursion goes on. In the store I decided to buy a salmon bagel for once. Though the food is of high quality, a lot is non vegan. And however I do eat meat once in a while, it does not include lamb. Which is about 75% of the available meat here. So after getting this sandwich bought, it was time to go to Geysir.
At this geothermic park, there are over 50 geysirs, hot springs, mudsprings, fumerols and other geothermal sites. The most famous is Geysir of course. And Strokkur who faithfully erupts every 4-6 minutes.
Since we only had 15 minutes here (what a shame!) I devoted my time to get a capture of the blue bell of Strokkur. This is the moment when the hot water is coming out of the geysir. A huge blue ball of water bursting into steam. I witnessed 2 rounds, before deciding to quickly run towards the other sites. I could not find time to see them all, or find out about their names. I wanted to see Geysir, but it appeared to me that Geysir was situated further on on a mountain, seeing lots of people standing there. I would have no time to do so... since we had to go to another place for the bus. I hated this, I wanted to see Geysir even if it would not erupt.
This site also is heaven for photographer, so again I got disappointed about this way, being used like cattle or a bunch of Japanese on a one week world tour. You wont want to know how many sites I have seen that I would have loved to force the busdriver to stop for pictures. So unfair. I have no picture of horses in full nature (with a volcano or hill as background), or the sheep in the middle of the autumn colors. Or the autumn colors itself, waterfalls that are beautiful but rarely visited. And now I didnt even glimpse Geysir. Now, when I write this I am with more wisdom, and know that I have seen AND captured Geysir. Honestly I am sure no one payed attention to him. It was the first one we came across, but me included we all walked straight towards Strokkur.
One day I will come back... and pay more attention to Geysir.
 |
| Strokkur is about to erupt. The "Blue Bell" is appearing soon to burst and explode into a fountain of hot steam |
 |
| All water is soaked back into the apparently empty hole that Strokkur is for a few seconds |
 |
| This is Geysir :-) |
 |
| Little Geysir once in a while flushes out a small fountain of steam, but mostly remains a boiling and bubbling pot. |
The tour ended by driving back via the southwest of Iceland. I saw Hekla and we drove past Ejafjallajokul hiding in the mists. We drove via the southwest to show another part of geothermal activity. Actually 2. First we went to a town which is build on such geothermal field. In the middle of the town there are fumerols and geysirs. Sometimes a house disappears when new fumerols develop. Dangerous to live, but Icelanders use it wisely. In this area there are lots of green houses where they use this thermal heat and energy to grow everything, from tomatos to roses, and melons to bananas. And a lot of flowers too. Iceland is getting less and less depend on other countries for food. But what is the price they will pay for it one day? After all they live on a volcano.
Not far away from this town, is the thermal energy station for Reykjavik, and the largest in the world. Here they use the geo thermal heat to heat water, to generate steam and to have this water transported to Reykjavik where it first warms the streets of Reykjavik, to keep them icefree. After this journey it is still hot enough to be used as hot water. Believe me, hot water from the tap is really hot, and cold water is really cold. It comes straight from either volcanos or glaciers. All they do is apply a filter to filter out large particals. The rest is unnecessary. The waters are so clean in Iceland, you can drink from the glaciers, or well. Providing you are sure it is not toxic volcanic water.
So Iceland has sufficient and clean water, energy and heating. Our guide told us she pays 1500 euro a year for water, electricity, heating, taxes and disposal. Maybe it is cheap, I dont know. But I pay less... but I don't use a lot. I am not average. You know, I walk without a jacket in Reykjavik in September...
Early in the evening we arrive back in Reykjavik. With the announcement that the northern light tour is cancelled for the third time. There was no chance for auroral activity either. It didn't matter. I could pack my suitcase and prepare for the day I leave. Tears drop down. What is my mission in my home country? Is it so cruel I have to go back to this place where I feel so miserable... Tomorrow I go back to my old ways, old routines, to news I don't want to hear, to pay bills I have no money for, to places where I am not being taken serious. To a country that is destroying itself to a third world country. I have to get away... but for Iceland I wait a moment until Katla has been woken up. I have to because if I want to take the cats, it can take up to 9 months before they are ready to leave. If I manage to take them with me. I have to see what problem causes Grey to cough up all the time.
Day 4 Meeting horseeeeys! And Geysir, Strokkur and Gulfoss
Today the morning starts wonderfull, riding Icelandic horses along the volcano fields around Reykjavik. Though the tour will only last for about 2 hours, I look forward to this very very much.
I do hope to have a group with more experienced riders though, but can't help it as I booked at a tourist agency. Next year I SHALL prepare better to find something wonderfull. Like riding underneath the auroras (when skies are clear that is).
In the afternoon we continue our touristic must see route to Geysir, Strokkur, Gullfoss and Pingvellir. The place where the American continental plate meets the European continental plate. The only place on Earth where you can step from America to Europe. Geologicaly that is.
http://eldgos.mila.is/thingvellir/
It is again a day full of stunning nature. I heard that Geysir has been slight more active lately. Not daily but who knows... I am lucky to witness the name giver to this water fountains in action. At least Strokkur will do every 10 minutes or so.
http://live.mila.is/geysir/
Must be amazing to see the water going against gravity. Just before we go see it coming down with the gravity as well. By visiting Gullfoss. The Golden Waterfall.
http://live.mila.is/gullfoss/
I believe any waterfall is beautifull. But I have many in Iceland I want to visit. Beside discovering some rather unknown ones. It is Gullfoss (visiting here), Skogafoss (which I hopefully visited yesterday), Dettifoss, famous for its created waterfall fogs with rainbows, Svartifoss which is afoot of a glacier falling down a huge bassalt wall, looking like a huge natural church organ. Fjallfoss/Dynjandi a beautifull faerytale style cascade waterfall. Most definitely the most beautifull of them all. My life will be complete after seeing the auroras and visiting this waterfall. Or waterfalls, because it seems this one is not alone. And there are lots more. Really I already know this won't be the last time I visit Iceland. I already die for it to book the next one!
I do hope to have a group with more experienced riders though, but can't help it as I booked at a tourist agency. Next year I SHALL prepare better to find something wonderfull. Like riding underneath the auroras (when skies are clear that is).
In the afternoon we continue our touristic must see route to Geysir, Strokkur, Gullfoss and Pingvellir. The place where the American continental plate meets the European continental plate. The only place on Earth where you can step from America to Europe. Geologicaly that is.
http://eldgos.mila.is/thingvellir/
It is again a day full of stunning nature. I heard that Geysir has been slight more active lately. Not daily but who knows... I am lucky to witness the name giver to this water fountains in action. At least Strokkur will do every 10 minutes or so.
http://live.mila.is/geysir/
Must be amazing to see the water going against gravity. Just before we go see it coming down with the gravity as well. By visiting Gullfoss. The Golden Waterfall.
http://live.mila.is/gullfoss/
I believe any waterfall is beautifull. But I have many in Iceland I want to visit. Beside discovering some rather unknown ones. It is Gullfoss (visiting here), Skogafoss (which I hopefully visited yesterday), Dettifoss, famous for its created waterfall fogs with rainbows, Svartifoss which is afoot of a glacier falling down a huge bassalt wall, looking like a huge natural church organ. Fjallfoss/Dynjandi a beautifull faerytale style cascade waterfall. Most definitely the most beautifull of them all. My life will be complete after seeing the auroras and visiting this waterfall. Or waterfalls, because it seems this one is not alone. And there are lots more. Really I already know this won't be the last time I visit Iceland. I already die for it to book the next one!
vrijdag 21 september 2012
Day 3, out to what is Iceland all about
Today it is an early wake up. I have a tour scheduled to Thorsmork, a national park hidden between 3 glacial volcanos.
When I wake up I barely dare to look outside. It was supposed to rain alllll day with slight chance of snow. And yes, undeniable I got to see it was grey and wet outside. Iceland turned back to its normal climate after two days of wonderfull clear skies.
I was sad of not seeing the pancakes for breakfast, but the discovered bowl of pecan nuts and a dish full of fruits like 3 types of melon, pineapple and papaya made me happy too.
At 7.30 I was picked up by GrayLine Iceland. A huge touringcar, that was not what I expected. But hey we were just transported to the downtown office of GrayLine. I was with 2 others the only in this bus. It is good almost all Icelandic busses drive on biodisel.
At the office I had to change my vouchers to the actual ticket. And after 30 minutes our real vehicle arrived.
Thorsmork is an out of this world place not accesible by normal busses or cars. They will be swept off road by the sometimes vicious glacier streams. So... our transport was Paris <-> Dakar worthy a 4 wheel drive bus. If I may call it that way. It is a bus on a truck base, high on it wheels, made to drive through water. It is nothing compared to the vehicles they use in Jokullsarloon that actually can float, but still impressive.
The group is not big, there is place for only 20 people on this tour and we are with 14. I had the back of the bus for myself, so I could switch from left to right if I wanted to. The driver tells us the introduction to the tour, that we would visit Eyjafjallajokull from close, see one of its glacier arms stretching out into Thorsmork, we should visit a forest on the rim of Katla and climb Thors rock. On the way back we visit two canyons. If we can cross the rivers running through which is doubtfull looking at the weather. And finally on our way back to Reykjavik, we visit the Seljalandfoss and the black lava beach down Sellfoss.
So, it would take a drive of about 2 hours to reach Thorsmork. Driving through the beautifull landscape of Iceland. First crossing a volcanic ridge near Reykjavik where the geothermal center is situated where the heat and hot water of Reykjavik come from. They use the volcanos very wisely. The hot water is transported to Reykjavik, where the pipelines first warm and defrost the streets and parkings, then they will heat also the public buildings. After this in the pipelines the water is still hot enough to be used as hot water for the houses and swimming pools. You can trust me if I say hot water, it is really hot. And cold water is ice cold in Iceland. The steam that is released from the collecting of the volcanic water, is used for hydro-thermal energy. Iceland solely relies on natural energy sources. It produces so much energy and hot water, it is even exported (and now I am curious how that works).
We drive on high through the mountains, actually in the rainclouds which did not allow us to see the beauty surrounding us. Very dramatic weather. The guide tried to cheer us up with saying that Thorsmork usually have opposite weather of Reykjavik, due to its location sheltered between the 3 volcanos. Lets hope it is that way. I know the opposite can be true too, clouds trapped between mountains, taking forever to flood away.
Soon we left the regular road, and got on a decent gravel road. We approached Eyjafjallajokull with its many waterfalls on the rims. So beautifull to see. We pass Seljalandfoss who we will visit later too. The colors of the volcano mountains, all shades of red, green, gold, orange and black. How would this look like in sunshine? So beautifull as it is in the rain already!
The volcanos are huge, after 20 minutes, and feeling like we passed ten mountains, the guide lets us know he won't talk anymore as roadcondition needs his full concentration. Yes I agree so. What a bumpy ride it become!
Everywhere around us lay the black lava rocks and ashes as silent witnesses from Esjafjallajokulls last eruption. Huge boulders, and in the middle of this black river valley, the glacial river flowing out the glacial melts of the volcanos. And, they are also our safety guards, who we should never leave out of sight. Because this river can indicate activity of the volcanos. If this river suddenly starts to expand (and it is streaming a few meters in a valley of 1 km wide) it could mean a glacier is melting due to a volcano starting to heat up. Besides earthquakes the rising river is usually first and most reliable sign an eruption is in progress.
I stare in awe at this beauty here, that black river bed, bordered by autumn colored hills dotted with sheep. No wonder films have been made here, and painters and artists love to come here. And the silence... incredible silence. And there, suddenly we are in front of this glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. The picture says it all what size only this small part of this glacier is. Look at the car and human in front, and I saw this car, this is a super jeep. Not the bigger type but still it is dissolving in the back grounds.
We had no time to walk up to the glacier. I would have loved to touch it. To stand in front. And I wonder and try to imagine the fury that has been released here in March 2010. What incredible powers can throw this huge house sizes boulders for km into the air. What heat can melt this glaciers in just seconds. You really stare in awe at this proove of brutal forces. But also with deep respect.
We continued our ride to Thorsmork national park. Another 45 minutes and the road got worse. Beyond this point of the glacier you can forget about it to go further with a regular 4x4. Unless you have a deathwish.
When we arrive in Thorsmork it still rains. We were prepared and after our lunch on the bus we proceeded to talk to Thors Rock who towered high above us. From a certain angle it is clear why it is called Thors rock. Looking like his hammer. Icelandic people believe his hammer once came falling from the sky. Which is weird because in Iceland barely ever there are thunderstorms. A thunderstorm is for Icelandic people what is northern lights to us. Something rare and to be watched with open mouth.
Thorsmork is one of the very few places where the native forest of Iceland has been preserved. The way it looks here, Iceland must have looked like for many many eons. Trees on Iceland are dwarf trees. The plenty of birches are arctic birches who never exceed the size of 5 meter in height. The roots cant grow deep, it makes no sense for a tree to grow taller here. We walk along a river towards Katla. The rims of Katla shelter us here. It would be as close as I could get to this volcano during this trip to Iceland. Then we started to climn the hill leading to Thors rock. What a magnificent view you have from here into all directions. Amazing.... how beautifull Iceland is. During this hike the speed was too high to just relax and enjoy the silence and roughness. It really bothered me. But this wonderfull surroundings made up for it completely. And I am aware this place I may never be able to visit again on my own. Simply because it is so inaccesable. You rely on someone to take you there who has both the vehicle and experience. Or a horse. There are horseriding tours (and I have seen the hoofprints) leading deep into this valley.
After visiting Thors Rock, we headed back to the glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. Close to there there is a canyon of which the saga says a troll is sleeping. To get to this trolls sleeping place you need to cross a glacial river two times. But because it has been raining so much this day, it is impossible for some of us to cross the river. I noticed I was soaked to the skin and water started to find its way into my waterboots. My jacket was very waterproof though, completely dry inside. But what a rain.
My camera started to develop problems with the humidity. I had a rainsleeve but condense started to form inside the sleeve and later also inside the camera. I was no longer able to take pictures. I wasn't without raindrops on the lens, but now also the condens inside, it was too much. And at this point I just was done for today too. Everything cold and wet, it couldnt get worse.
Back on the bus I had to unbuckle for a second to grab some falling goods. And just at that moment, the bus ditched a deep hole in the river. Making me fly up for over 60cm. My head crashed to the ceiling, my neck swayed back. Butterflies all around me, and the driver who didn't pay any attention at all. It was a hell of a smack but it was besides being painfull, ok. In my feeling what happened is that my skin got torn from my scalp, I could feel a friction when pressing it, normally the skin moved smoothly but at this poing no... But no serious damage or rupture. Luckily not because this place calls for expensive medical repatriation (or how they call it) and they warned to make sure you are insured for this before leaving for Iceland. The only way to get out is by air... But, it was ok.
Few minutes later we could have a small picture break for a rainbow and beautifull autumn colors. And I captured a rock from the freezing cold glacial river to put on my sore head. Nature is always around to help you when you need it.
The next stop was at the Seljalandfoss. Soaking wet we dragged ourself to the waterfall. Good thing is that you honestly dont care anymore of the moisty mists around waterfalls, since you cant really getany wetter than this. Instead it became a delicious habit to lick this pure water. Waters are so pure here, and an incredible sweet taste. And this is one of the many ways to deal with the rain. The best is of course like the natives do, to go swimm.
We had 15 minutes at this fall you could walk behind. But the motivation for me was far away. This truly is a wonderfull waterfall, but with me sometimes the motivation disappears and it will be gone. Even in this area. It is my way of thinking. I am done for today, so please go home. :-( Or put it in other more clear explanation, I need time for myself to settle and I am fed up with the restrictions. ;-)
Last on the list we drove to the coast. The area that was developed after Katlas last massive eruption in 1918. 5 km of extra land was born. Iceland doesnt have a lot of beaches. It is mainly fjords and cliffs or river deltas. But here is a beach full of black lava sand. Looking quite odd, as if you ended up in some sort of reality photoshop scene. I grabbed a handfull to take home. Strong winds were blowing, turning my face salty. Besides being black, the beach looked equal to my own.
If weather was clear, we could have seen the Westmann Islands. But no, it still rained. Until we approached Reykjavik, were we saw the sun go down.
The guide appologised for the rain. He never experienced it this worse in Thorsmork. It does rain there often, but never this continuing heavy rain like we had. Was I lucky now? I just hoped weather would be better tomorrow.
After checking with the receptionist there was again no northern light tour. And I wondered, how many times a year actually will this tour be operated? It was not heavy clouded. But nevermind, if it was operated and I wouldnt have seen anything, it was waste of money. Now it seems I will never get on this tour, and will get money back. And still saw auroras. It is ok....
Time to spend a lot of time drying my clothes. And decided to go to the swimming pool to smother in the hot tub. Nice way to warm up and relax, and look back at this awesomeness I have seen.
When I wake up I barely dare to look outside. It was supposed to rain alllll day with slight chance of snow. And yes, undeniable I got to see it was grey and wet outside. Iceland turned back to its normal climate after two days of wonderfull clear skies.
I was sad of not seeing the pancakes for breakfast, but the discovered bowl of pecan nuts and a dish full of fruits like 3 types of melon, pineapple and papaya made me happy too.
At 7.30 I was picked up by GrayLine Iceland. A huge touringcar, that was not what I expected. But hey we were just transported to the downtown office of GrayLine. I was with 2 others the only in this bus. It is good almost all Icelandic busses drive on biodisel.
At the office I had to change my vouchers to the actual ticket. And after 30 minutes our real vehicle arrived.
Thorsmork is an out of this world place not accesible by normal busses or cars. They will be swept off road by the sometimes vicious glacier streams. So... our transport was Paris <-> Dakar worthy a 4 wheel drive bus. If I may call it that way. It is a bus on a truck base, high on it wheels, made to drive through water. It is nothing compared to the vehicles they use in Jokullsarloon that actually can float, but still impressive.
The group is not big, there is place for only 20 people on this tour and we are with 14. I had the back of the bus for myself, so I could switch from left to right if I wanted to. The driver tells us the introduction to the tour, that we would visit Eyjafjallajokull from close, see one of its glacier arms stretching out into Thorsmork, we should visit a forest on the rim of Katla and climb Thors rock. On the way back we visit two canyons. If we can cross the rivers running through which is doubtfull looking at the weather. And finally on our way back to Reykjavik, we visit the Seljalandfoss and the black lava beach down Sellfoss.
So, it would take a drive of about 2 hours to reach Thorsmork. Driving through the beautifull landscape of Iceland. First crossing a volcanic ridge near Reykjavik where the geothermal center is situated where the heat and hot water of Reykjavik come from. They use the volcanos very wisely. The hot water is transported to Reykjavik, where the pipelines first warm and defrost the streets and parkings, then they will heat also the public buildings. After this in the pipelines the water is still hot enough to be used as hot water for the houses and swimming pools. You can trust me if I say hot water, it is really hot. And cold water is ice cold in Iceland. The steam that is released from the collecting of the volcanic water, is used for hydro-thermal energy. Iceland solely relies on natural energy sources. It produces so much energy and hot water, it is even exported (and now I am curious how that works).
We drive on high through the mountains, actually in the rainclouds which did not allow us to see the beauty surrounding us. Very dramatic weather. The guide tried to cheer us up with saying that Thorsmork usually have opposite weather of Reykjavik, due to its location sheltered between the 3 volcanos. Lets hope it is that way. I know the opposite can be true too, clouds trapped between mountains, taking forever to flood away.
Soon we left the regular road, and got on a decent gravel road. We approached Eyjafjallajokull with its many waterfalls on the rims. So beautifull to see. We pass Seljalandfoss who we will visit later too. The colors of the volcano mountains, all shades of red, green, gold, orange and black. How would this look like in sunshine? So beautifull as it is in the rain already!
The volcanos are huge, after 20 minutes, and feeling like we passed ten mountains, the guide lets us know he won't talk anymore as roadcondition needs his full concentration. Yes I agree so. What a bumpy ride it become!
Everywhere around us lay the black lava rocks and ashes as silent witnesses from Esjafjallajokulls last eruption. Huge boulders, and in the middle of this black river valley, the glacial river flowing out the glacial melts of the volcanos. And, they are also our safety guards, who we should never leave out of sight. Because this river can indicate activity of the volcanos. If this river suddenly starts to expand (and it is streaming a few meters in a valley of 1 km wide) it could mean a glacier is melting due to a volcano starting to heat up. Besides earthquakes the rising river is usually first and most reliable sign an eruption is in progress.
I stare in awe at this beauty here, that black river bed, bordered by autumn colored hills dotted with sheep. No wonder films have been made here, and painters and artists love to come here. And the silence... incredible silence. And there, suddenly we are in front of this glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. The picture says it all what size only this small part of this glacier is. Look at the car and human in front, and I saw this car, this is a super jeep. Not the bigger type but still it is dissolving in the back grounds.
We had no time to walk up to the glacier. I would have loved to touch it. To stand in front. And I wonder and try to imagine the fury that has been released here in March 2010. What incredible powers can throw this huge house sizes boulders for km into the air. What heat can melt this glaciers in just seconds. You really stare in awe at this proove of brutal forces. But also with deep respect.
We continued our ride to Thorsmork national park. Another 45 minutes and the road got worse. Beyond this point of the glacier you can forget about it to go further with a regular 4x4. Unless you have a deathwish.
When we arrive in Thorsmork it still rains. We were prepared and after our lunch on the bus we proceeded to talk to Thors Rock who towered high above us. From a certain angle it is clear why it is called Thors rock. Looking like his hammer. Icelandic people believe his hammer once came falling from the sky. Which is weird because in Iceland barely ever there are thunderstorms. A thunderstorm is for Icelandic people what is northern lights to us. Something rare and to be watched with open mouth.
 |
| Here is another troll, an old lady guarding with her dog. Forever guarding the mountains. |
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| It is not that difficult to understand why ancient Icelandic people believed rocks were trolls frozen in time. |
 |
| The glacial river entwines its way through this valley. This river will turn into inferno when a volcano is awake. |
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| Thors rock, looking like Thors hammer who fell from the sky and ripped apart this mountain ridge. Not difficult to see many faces in this rock either. This place is alive, very alive. |
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| Autumn colors, so beautifull |
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| One of Katlas volcanic rims |
Thorsmork is one of the very few places where the native forest of Iceland has been preserved. The way it looks here, Iceland must have looked like for many many eons. Trees on Iceland are dwarf trees. The plenty of birches are arctic birches who never exceed the size of 5 meter in height. The roots cant grow deep, it makes no sense for a tree to grow taller here. We walk along a river towards Katla. The rims of Katla shelter us here. It would be as close as I could get to this volcano during this trip to Iceland. Then we started to climn the hill leading to Thors rock. What a magnificent view you have from here into all directions. Amazing.... how beautifull Iceland is. During this hike the speed was too high to just relax and enjoy the silence and roughness. It really bothered me. But this wonderfull surroundings made up for it completely. And I am aware this place I may never be able to visit again on my own. Simply because it is so inaccesable. You rely on someone to take you there who has both the vehicle and experience. Or a horse. There are horseriding tours (and I have seen the hoofprints) leading deep into this valley.
After visiting Thors Rock, we headed back to the glacial arm of Esjafjallajokull. Close to there there is a canyon of which the saga says a troll is sleeping. To get to this trolls sleeping place you need to cross a glacial river two times. But because it has been raining so much this day, it is impossible for some of us to cross the river. I noticed I was soaked to the skin and water started to find its way into my waterboots. My jacket was very waterproof though, completely dry inside. But what a rain.
My camera started to develop problems with the humidity. I had a rainsleeve but condense started to form inside the sleeve and later also inside the camera. I was no longer able to take pictures. I wasn't without raindrops on the lens, but now also the condens inside, it was too much. And at this point I just was done for today too. Everything cold and wet, it couldnt get worse.
 |
| One picture of the canyon and then my camera decided it has been enough. For this while it was. |
Back on the bus I had to unbuckle for a second to grab some falling goods. And just at that moment, the bus ditched a deep hole in the river. Making me fly up for over 60cm. My head crashed to the ceiling, my neck swayed back. Butterflies all around me, and the driver who didn't pay any attention at all. It was a hell of a smack but it was besides being painfull, ok. In my feeling what happened is that my skin got torn from my scalp, I could feel a friction when pressing it, normally the skin moved smoothly but at this poing no... But no serious damage or rupture. Luckily not because this place calls for expensive medical repatriation (or how they call it) and they warned to make sure you are insured for this before leaving for Iceland. The only way to get out is by air... But, it was ok.
Few minutes later we could have a small picture break for a rainbow and beautifull autumn colors. And I captured a rock from the freezing cold glacial river to put on my sore head. Nature is always around to help you when you need it.
The next stop was at the Seljalandfoss. Soaking wet we dragged ourself to the waterfall. Good thing is that you honestly dont care anymore of the moisty mists around waterfalls, since you cant really getany wetter than this. Instead it became a delicious habit to lick this pure water. Waters are so pure here, and an incredible sweet taste. And this is one of the many ways to deal with the rain. The best is of course like the natives do, to go swimm.
We had 15 minutes at this fall you could walk behind. But the motivation for me was far away. This truly is a wonderfull waterfall, but with me sometimes the motivation disappears and it will be gone. Even in this area. It is my way of thinking. I am done for today, so please go home. :-( Or put it in other more clear explanation, I need time for myself to settle and I am fed up with the restrictions. ;-)
Last on the list we drove to the coast. The area that was developed after Katlas last massive eruption in 1918. 5 km of extra land was born. Iceland doesnt have a lot of beaches. It is mainly fjords and cliffs or river deltas. But here is a beach full of black lava sand. Looking quite odd, as if you ended up in some sort of reality photoshop scene. I grabbed a handfull to take home. Strong winds were blowing, turning my face salty. Besides being black, the beach looked equal to my own.
If weather was clear, we could have seen the Westmann Islands. But no, it still rained. Until we approached Reykjavik, were we saw the sun go down.
The guide appologised for the rain. He never experienced it this worse in Thorsmork. It does rain there often, but never this continuing heavy rain like we had. Was I lucky now? I just hoped weather would be better tomorrow.
After checking with the receptionist there was again no northern light tour. And I wondered, how many times a year actually will this tour be operated? It was not heavy clouded. But nevermind, if it was operated and I wouldnt have seen anything, it was waste of money. Now it seems I will never get on this tour, and will get money back. And still saw auroras. It is ok....
Time to spend a lot of time drying my clothes. And decided to go to the swimming pool to smother in the hot tub. Nice way to warm up and relax, and look back at this awesomeness I have seen.
